Rev A Brandram No.8
Gibraltar 15th December 1847
My Dear Friend,
When I wrote you on the 4th instant from Tetuan, I was ready to leave that place, and was waiting for the first vessel. One offered for Ceuta, and in the same I engaged a passage, as I hoped from thence easily to get a vessel going direct across the Straits of Gibraltar.
The only thing I left undone in Tetuan which I had wished to do was obtain a visit to the Bashaw. But I learned that I could not effect that without taking with me a Present for him of not less value than a doubloon, and besides nearly as much more would be required in gratuities to attendants. So I thought this too much, and that it was better to forgo the interview.
The port of embarkation of Tetuan is some six or seven miles distant from the town, and of course a horse was necessary; and not less necessary was a soldier, for there is an express order, that no Christian shall go outside the gates even without this accompaniment, whilst Jews may go with or without as they please. This difference is owing to the circumstance, that if the Christian is murdered, the European Authority to which he belongs calls the Moorish Government to strict account on the subject, and it may be that severe penalties are exacted, whereas the Poor Jew has nobody to take up his cause, and the Government cares not whether he been murdered or not, and murders of such in this quarter are not rare.
I mounted, as in Tangier, at the Inn, and rode through the town, thus enjoying the privilege of European influence; and I may observe, that it is not many years since this privilege was granted in Tetuan, and it was asked, insisted on, and obtained by the British Consul there at the time; but in a former period, owing to some affair between a Christian and a Moor, the Emperor swore by his beard, that no Christian should ever live there in future, and this (considered the most sacred of oaths) was kept for a long time, and hence all the Consuls had to remove to Tangier where they now reside. The British Lion however interfered and succeeded, and at the present time our Consul is the sole Christian in this town of 30,000 inhabitants.
As I rode through the Moor part of the town, I met numbers of Jews, in dress and appearance gentlemen, but each with his slippers or shoes in his hand, and walking on his stocking soles, or barefooted, for stockings here are the exception not the rule in both Moor and Jew. This the Jews had to do, as they had every now and then to pass a Mosque, and to avoid always taking off and putting on their slippers they thus kept them off altogether. – I might mention here also, that no Jew is allowed to wear yellow slippers, which is the universal colour of those of the Moors. Again, the Moor wears a red cap, but woe to the Jew if he presumed on the same, his must be and is black, as also are his slippers. There were no hats in this country, except on the head of an outlandish European, and most outlandish we all are here in this Barbary.
Soon after I reached the port, a Jew came down to the Custom House where I was waiting; and it seemed that I must needs see, before I left this country, a still stronger proof than I had yet seen of Ishmael ruling over and oppressing Isaac. It was near sunset when the Jew was about to return, but the Moor Authorities refused to let him go to the city at that late hour, agreeably it would seem, to some orders on the subject, but most probably overstretched by them for gain, and which the Jew did not consider to apply to him at that hour. He got angry with them, and about half a dozen Moors set on him like so many dogs at a bull, and how Arabic words did pour out in volumes and thunders! During this fracas, one of the Moors with a long and heavy stick struck the Jew with all his might. The Jew of course, had to give way, and remain there till the morning, and as to the severe blow he had received you would never think of seeking redress, as he would be sure not to obtain it, but on the contrary he might receive additional injury in being fined or imprisoned.
I got into our skiff of a vessel, of five tons and a half, and passed the night in a sort of coffin, for there was little more than a hand breadth between my face and the deck. There I lay all night, and also till two o'clock next day, whilst we were waiting to get out of the river, and the weather was bad so as thus to confine me below. At this hour, we hove, I may say, into the sea, and in this tetotum vessel in a high wind and a high sea, we had a sort of hap step and jump voyage of no ordinary kind, from wave to wave, over the waves, and under the waves, whilst I lay in my coffin to keep myself dry as the water was dashing over the vessel, and the hatches fast closed. We got to Ceuta just about an hour after the gates were shut, and so I had another night of this coffin. In the morning I got out after 36 hours enclosure, and we entered the city.
Ceuta, perhaps you are aware, is a Spanish Fortress, on the coast of Marocco, just like our British Fort of Gibraltar on the coast and territory properly so called of Spain. But Spain can never complain of our holding Gibraltar, whilst the hold in turn this portion of Marocco.
Again, once more, I felt myself on Christian ground, and I blessed God for the same. I felt with fresh force the advantages of being born in a Christian land, and gave thanks anew for this blessing under feelings I had never had so strong before. The Christianity of Ceuta is Romanism, but still I felt the joy of being on Christian ground. We Protestants at times are apt to wish that Roman Catholic countries had remained in heathenism rather than with the corrupted Christianity they have. I have long ago been corrected in this, but now on this occasion felt more than ever convinced of the great advantage of the profession of Christianity under any form, rather than Jewish, Mohammedanism, or Paganism. I have a proof and illustration at hand. When walking out in Ceuta, I had some conversation the man who was showing me some things in the place. He was a convict, and I took occasion to show him the greater danger of being a convict for eternity. I told him that to avoid that issue we must truly repent of our sins, and rest in the blood of Jesus Christ, and in that alone. The man received this instruction with readiness. But what would have been the reception of the Jew, Mohammedan, or pagan to this advice!
I brought with me from Tetuan a note to the Aid de Camp of the Governor, and I was kindly conducted by him over the city and fortifications, and also introduced to the Governor, with whom I had the pleasure of dining. I was glad of this opportunity of seeing the Governor so much, and learning somewhat concerning this penal establishment, for such the fortress has been made, besides war purposes. The number of the inhabitants of the town is nearly 3000. The military number about the same, and the convicts vary from 2000 to 3000. Most of these convicts are at large, and acting as servants, watchmen, etc. All the soldiers, it may be observed too, are a sort of convicts, for they have been all sentenced to this penal establishment for evil deeds done in their respective regiments in Spain. Yet notwithstanding this mass of criminals there is hardly a crime committed in the place! It seems to be one of the most successful in good results of any penal establishment known, and a visit to it might instruct those who, so much to their credit, take an interest in improving these establishments. – I made inquiry about the sale or circulation of Bibles there, but got no encouragement. But on my return here, I sent the Governor a Bible, the New Testament to his Lady, and one to another Lady who dined with us.
After a couple of days spent in this place, I got, as I had expected, a vessel for Gibraltar. With a fine wind, and a fine day, we had a delightful voyage across the Straits, from the one Pillar of Hercules to the other, and these two splendid rocks or mountains, and all the coasts of the Straits, full before us. It was no wonder the Ancients were struck when they first saw these Pillars of Hercules, and the singular Strait connected with them. If I were a Poet I would write a poem entitled "The Mediterranean," a sea so full of past incidents and of great interest, and not less so perhaps of present ones.
Again in Europe, and the British ground too, I look back to Africa, Barbary, and Marocco. Last month seems to me the dream, everything having been so different from all I have seen before. I have been led, I may say unwittingly, into this new field of labours, and I have great hopes that it may become, and early, one is much interest, and of extensive operations. I trust you will be able to meet our wishes about the Hebrew Bible, and also the suggestions made regarding a portion, or portions, of the New Testament for the Jews. On this last suggestion I have thought a great deal since I last wrote, and I see the subject in a much stronger light than I did then. It is a measure applicable to the Jews everywhere. I hope too the Moors through this visit may soon have a portion of the Scriptures in their own dialect of every day's conversation. The great cause of Education also, though not directly ours, likewise will gain I trust by this visitation, and many will thus be prepared for perusing the Books you send them. May God give his blessing with the humble means called into exercise in favour of these countries and peoples.
I am now sending a case of books to Tangier and another to Tetuan, containing each five Arabic Bibles, five Hebrew New Testaments, and six Rabbinical Spanish Testaments. I found these last here since my return, not having known of them before. I would have taken them with me had I known of them, especially as a supply I had requested did not come, through some oversight I suppose, or perhaps because you are out of them. I send these to two Jews who have no scruple about reading or giving the New Testament, and we may hope the number of such will increase.
I now forward the two Marocco Arabic documents mentioned in my preceding letter.
The Packet is expected here tomorrow, and will sail the following day. I go with it to Cadiz there to commence anew my Spanish work, interrupted by Africa.
I remain, My Dear Friend, Very Faithfully Yours,
James Thomson.
Postscript. – I have had different meetings with our friends of the Bible Society here, and we were contemplating having a public meeting, and of organizing a formal Bible Society. But upon taking all things into consideration it was thought better to defer our purpose to a future occasion.
Two of our friends, both Officers of the Army, undertook the other day to visit some vessels in the harbour, and their reception and success were very encouraging, so that they are likely to pursue the work, and probably you may in due time here of their operations in an official shape.
I saw a Hebrew Bible here today in the shop of a Jew of the duodecimo size, and printed by Mackintosh, 20 Great New Street, Fetter Lane in 5596. The letter is smaller than yours. But if you could get these and cheap, and have them bound in four volumes as formerly described, it would at least suit in the meantime.
I found here on my arrival your letter of the 22nd November. I am not much disappointed at your refusal to advance money on the project mentioned. I thought at the time I wrote, and more afterwards, that I was converging upon, if not also treading upon, ground not exactly our own, but rather beyond our sphere. Perhaps some impression was on my mind, rightly or wrongly, that I had in this Spain a sort of liberty to transgress. Mr. Hull's letter is my commission. Again I thought, that should you find yourselves unable in principle to attend to the request as a body, that same might move the more someone, two or three, to lend the sum in question. The failures however of which I read after my letter was on the way discouraged me, but notwithstanding these discouragements, help may yet come from some quarter in aid of the proposed undertaking, and the plan may be carried into effect, and largely you may, and may you reap benefits from the same. My letter from Tangier has the following expression. – "I called on the Miss Duncans and made an apology to them for." Please to alter it thus, – "I called on them and made an apology for".