James Diego Thomson

Tour in Yucatan - 26 October 1843

Thursday 26th of October 1843.

 [1] At daylight this morning we sailed from Veracruz harbour.  The wind was light, and we had to keep close to it, so that we made little progress:  and thus things continued all day.  The mountain of Orizába was full in view, showing itself forth in all its majesty, and in all its beauty.  This splendid mountain is an object of real sublimity, and the eye rests upon it with conscious awe and delight, and feels unwilling to withdraw from it.  Its height is           feet, and it is densely covered down about one third with snow.  This snow, investing the head and shoulders of Orizaba, never disappears; and the first shower that fell upon it, must needs to be there still, and this probably was in the days of Noah.

 The landscape lying before us, consisting of Veracruz, and other parts of the coast, close at hand, and this Orizaba in the distance, gives us a striking picture of the fine country of which they form parts.  No country is more richly favoured than Mexico as to varieties of climate.  In the short compass of a day's journey we have the hottest climate, and the coldest, and all the gradations that intervene between these two.  In the market of the city of Mexico are to be seen every day, and throughout the year, all the varied productions of the world met together.  There are to be seen and to be bought, the sugar cane, and the richest fruits of the hottest portions of the torrid zone, and there is to be found the apple, and the potato; and to represent the lowest temperatures, large blocks of ice are among the articles of sale.

 These blocks of ice are brought from Itzahuatl, which with its fellow and of greater elevation, called Popocatepetl, are situated within a short distance of the city, and shows themselves to the inhabitants of the capital, and to thousands else at great and at intermediate distances around, covered as they are head and shoulders like Orizaba with everlasting snow, and of as old standing.  Popocatepetl is                    feet high, and Itzahuatl is        .

 These three are the only ever-snow covered mountains of Mexico.  None of them at present are active volcanoes to appearance, but yet I believe there is something continually being thrown up from the craters which surmount them.  Issues of this kind were perceived on a visit to Popocateptl made by some gentlemen whilst I was in Mexico in 1828.  Of the three the most beautiful is Orizaba, and owing chiefly to its mass presenting more of a conical form than the other two.  Both of the others are irregular in their shapes.

 These gigantic mountains with their hoary heads bring before me in remembrance other mountains of this nature in other countries, and I now notice them by way of comparison.  Chimborazo is the highest I have seen, and is the highest in the new world, but it has a blunted and sort of double head which injures its appearance.  Tunguragua at no great distance, and both presented to the traveller's eye at one and the same time, is of most beautiful and majestic aspect, as it has an elegantly conical form and rises out of the valley below and thus adds to its apparent height.  Cotopaxi is not less beautiful though appearing less elevated.  I cannot here help noticing, as by the way, the splendid scenery that is to be seen and enjoyed in travelling along the great valley referred to which lies between the two ridges of the Andes stretching from the Equator North and South.  On each side there is a vast mountain ridge, and here and there at intervals there rise over of the top of these ridges enormous protuberances, and covered deeply down with snow.  Some three or four of these mountain peaks with their hoary and  variedly shaped heads are continually in the view of the traveller at one and the same time.  As he moves along he loses in succession one and another behind him, but at the same time one and another and another of new ones come into view before him in the direction in which he is going.  I notice this scenery to induce some of my readers of a travelling disposition  to think of those parts when they may plan the course of their movements.  A journey through those quarters would I am sure well repay for many travellers' troubles, and would leave such an impression behind for ever after as to scenery that few other places could effect.  I would just notice before I leave this subject, that the parallel ridges I have mentioned are called Cordilleras, whereas the whole set of the mountains are called the Andes.  It is therefore not correct to say the Cordillera as we sometimes see it, when speaking of a mountain in South America, as there is no mountain whatever so called, and Cordillera is merely a general term like our word ridge, and something else therefore is necessary to give a proper and distinctive name to the object referred to.

 [2] To return to our vessel.  We passengers counted eleven in number.  There were first of all, and as the personages of most prominence, the three commissioners, and whose names I at once record, as is befitting I should, and for more reasons than one.  I give them as officially they stand, Don Crescensio José Pinelo, Don Joaquín García Rejón, and Don Gerónimo Castillo.  Next, a son and a son in law of the first of these three names, and a son of the second.  Then two brothers of the name Calero, and three other individuals including the writer of this narrative.  All there ten were residents of Mérida, the capital of Yucatan, except one who belonged to Campeachy, and all were married men.

 Our vessel was hired by and for the commissioners, and all we additional eight went per favour in one way, and per payment in another.  For we could not have gone at all except under the wing official of the said commissioners.  On the other hand we paid for our passage a certain sum, and all alike, according to the costs of the vessel in which we sailed.  It was hardly licit perhaps that our official bark should carry cargo, and probably it was less licit too under the existing non intercourse between the ports of Mexico and Yucatan.  Nevertheless we had cargo, and also a full one, and perhaps more than enough, for the whole breadth of our cabin as high as the seats around was occupied by portions of cargo which the hold could not take in.  This leave to load our vessel might be considered as a favour granted by the Custom House offices of Veracruz rather than as coming from a higher quarter, whence most likely it could not have been obtained under present disfavour.  A main article of our cargo was aniseed, an article extensively used in Yucatan in the manufacturing of spirits which they make from their sugar cane.  But the anise will not grow where the cane does, and has to be brought from Mexico, on the higher and temperate lands of which it grows and is cultivated extensively, both for internal use in Mexico, and for exportation, as I may say, to Yucatan.  This is one illustration of the benefits Mexico derives from its varied climates, and which is one sense lays it under no obligations to other countries.  The manufactured articles it may need is another matter.

 Two of our hands, as we technically call sailors, were English.  By the way this odd use of the word hands gives rise at times to still odder expressions, and use of these I put down, as just now recurring to me whilst I write.  A captain having an affair with a piratical vessel reported, that in the affray one of his hands was shot through the arm.  There are many such, as well as other anomalous expressions used in our own and in other living languages, which if collected and illustrated would most probably throw some light on the dead classical tongues.

 But I must not overlook our two English sailors in this Foreign vessel.  One of them, a fine strong looking man was of  full African descent and colour, and was one of the negroes of the Preston settlement near Halifax in Nova Scotia:  his name Henry Rose.  The other is a white man, named Archibald Amory, and was born, and raised, as the Americans say, in the town of Basseterre, the capital of the island of St Kitts, or St Christopher's, belonging to the British in the West Indies. I seized an early opportunity in the course of our voyage of talking with these very countrymen, and in our own Native English, a circumstance which is really a treat in a foreign land, and when the mouth and the ear are accustomed only and every day to foreign sounds.  I drew their attention to their religious and their moral standing, and to their standing as British subjects.  I found on the first of these scores, as I had feared, that they had not much to say for themselves, and which confession led me to press upon their attention the vast importance to all, and not least to sailors from their hazardous life, of being right and ready on the matter of  true religion and eternity.  They both listened attentively to what was stated, and thanked me for bringing the subject before them.

 The wages these men received was 18 dollars a month.  This is high, and considerably above what was at the same time current in England and in the United States, in the former of which it might be quoted at 10½ dollars, and in the latter at 12.  I was glad to learn from Henry Rose that he had not, sailor like, spent all his money, but that he had 100 dollars deposited with an English merchant in Veracruz.

 [3] I inquired of these men how they liked this foreign and Mexican service, and I was a good deal struck with their reply.  They said they liked the service, because they were better treated than on board of an English vessel, and that their food was better.  They observed that instead of beef and biscuit and beef  and biscuit, and only beef and biscuit, they had potatoes and rice and other vegetables served out to them daily, and that all was cooked for them with care; whereas in an English vessel, they could not get vegetables, nor such cooking, and that when by chance they might have anything in this way the captain was always railing about the expenditure of the water, or some other expenditure in the case.  I think this matter is worthy of a good deal of consideration on the part of owners and masters of English vessels, and of all those who interact themselves in the British sailors= welfare, and all of us should, for the welfare of us all is promoted to a great extent both nationally and individually  by the sailor, whom may God favour with better treatment, and food, and a better religious and moral training and care.

 I have here digressed in some measure from my journaling, and from pure narrative.  For this I beg my reader's pardon, if he thinks I require to do so.  But at the same time I do not promise to keep altogether clear in future as to transgressing in this way.  I would rather keep in view as I write that I am engaged in close conversation with my reader as a friend, and that it is not out of place, but on the contrary natural, to digress form rigid recital by pursuing for a short distance those ideas that incidentally and easily arise out of the subject related.  This I know to be the natural course and practice of all conversation, and most when it is of the best kind.

I come again to our vessel, and notice last the greatest personage on board, namely him who, as our voyage king even in this republic, rules over us, and with a kind of absolute sway, and such a sway is necessary for the good of all.  Our captain, to wit, is the personage I refer to.  His name is José María Sánchez, a native  of Campeachy in Yucatan; and every Mexican sailor, I might nearly say, is a native of that sea port.

 I have not yet stated all the position and circumstances on board of our official vessel.  But with one article more I shall close.  I have already noticed that our cabin was filled up all across as high as the immovable seats around its sides with cargo, and this under stratum I now add was of bags of aniseed which, as before mentioned, formed the chief part of our lading.  The next stratum was ourselves, during the night, lying side by side like so many salmon on a board at market.  Some or most of us had a mattress of some kind on which we lay, but from the unevenness of this supporting substance or rounded bags we had not very smooth beds.  As to bed clothing we had no fault to find with it, for we had none, and first because we were in the torrid zone, and secondly because we kept the most of our day clothing still attached during the night.  Some of our number during favourable nights lay on the deck, which was perhaps the best place, the better breathing air was favourable, but this was counterbalanced by the dews and general damp of the night.

 Tour in Yucatan - 27-31 October 1843

Friday 27th October 1843

 This morning the sun rose upon us most beautifully, and a lovely sight it is of a truth to see the sun arise without a cloud or spec, from a perfectly limped horizon, and without a cloud in sight over the whole sky.  This is comparatively a rare sight in our English climate, but more common on our continental parallel.  But it is in the torrid zone that this delightful sight is to be seen and enjoyed in its nearly perfect state, as almost every morning affords this lovely spectacle.

 In our conversations today about the study of the English language, one of our number mentioned the case of a certain Mexican whom he named, who on arriving in New York  was very much taken by surprise, and seized with wonderment at observing that all the children there, even the very little ones, spoke English, whilst he found himself unable alike to speak or understand what these little ones did so easily.  This showed of course his small extent of thought, and how little he knew of the world.  Yet the subject itself is one of high wonder, namely,  the facility with which children learn to understand and speak a language, and without the least [4] care or effort on their part.  God is glorified in his wisdom and goodness, and in the high intelligence, if I may so speak which are displayed in this singular yet little thought of power which he has given to very young children.

 It appears to us odd that the individual above referred to should have had so little thought in this matter.  But yet the feeling, I may say, is common to all persons unacquainted with the fact of the existence of other people in the world speaking a tongue different from their own, or at least of finding any person unable to speak their own tongue which to themselves is so easy and natural that they think every other person must need also be able to understand and speak it.  In illustration of this, I would here mention what occurred to me in Buenos Ayres in the year 1818, a short time after my arrival there.  The washerwoman on bringing my clothes home stated to me some particulars about the cost, etc. which she judged necessary.  But all her statements were perfectly unintelligible to me, as I as yet had made next to no progress in the Spanish language.  By my blankness, I suppose, she discovered that she had made no impression on me; and unable to comprehend how a person with common appearances of intelligence could not understand Spanish which to her was so easy and natural she conceived that the only cause of my not comprehending her must needs be that I was deaf, and coming close up to me, she bawled aloud in my ear, and thus made sure, as she thought, that I should both hear and understand, but the latter failed of course as before.

 I observed in the course of today and with pain a good deal of jesting on the subject of religion among the younger members of our company.  This reminded me of some things I had heard in Mexico unfavourable to the Yucatan people on this score, and I feared there was too much truth in the statements made against them.

 A single solitary flying fish was seen today on the wing.  It is always an object of interest to see this fish, putting itself as it does into the attitude of a bird.  The torrid zone in general abounds with these fishes, and at times they rise in great numbers, and they will keep for a wonderful time on the wing, and move to a considerable distance.  In many instances they are picked up on the deck of the vessel.  Their rising out of the water is occasioned by the approach of their great enemy the dolphin, and their wings and their flying are their defensive means with which the all-wise Creator has furnished them for escape from immediate danger.  I dare say there are many who think the very mention of a fish flying is a pure traveller's story and no more, alias a fib.  It bears upon this subject the account we have all heard from our early days of the conversation of the sailor and his mother after he had returned from a voyage to the West Indies.  He had seen, he told his mother, mountains of sugar, rivers of rum, and flying fish.  This last relation startled her if the other two did not.  Mountains of sugar, she said, he might have seen, and perhaps too rivers of rum, but that he had seen flying fish, she never would, she said, believe, tell her of it who would.  I have not been so fortunate as this sailor was, though I have been seven years in the West Indies, to see either mountains of sugar or rivers of rum, but flying fish I have seen times without number, and hundreds of  them on the wing at the same time, perhaps thousands.

 Our voyage progress today was but little, as our winds were variable and generally unfavourable.  We had also the discomfort of some squalls and showers, neither of which are pleasant at sea.

 Saturday 28th October 1843

 Our progress or this third day of our voyage was much like the preceding, and brought us little onwards on our way.  In the midst of this irregular and unfavourable weather we half wished for a Norther, and yet we almost as much feared we might have one.  A Norther just of the strength we wished it to be and no more would have done us good, and brought us comfortably and quickly on the way to our destination.  But these Northers do not generally correspond in strength to the desires of either seamen nor of landsmen passengers, but blow with might and main.  The former kind we [5] wished for, and the latter we feared.

I was grieved anew to hear among our friends today a continuation of religious jesting, one said aloud in the hearing of all, and under the impression of the very wet and squally weather we had, "Qué santo rige hoy en el cielo?"  Another replied to this, and with more wit than piety, "San Judas".  On another occasion, one said, "Voy a rezar un credo,"  and forthwith another said, "Creo en Dios Padre Todopoderoso."  On a third occasion one said to another who seemed dull, "Está V. meditando la pasion del Señor?"  I was truly sorry to see this mode of treating religion, and so frequently.  I wished much for a favourable opportunity to show disapprobation to this mode of profaning sacred language and things.  None however occurred, but I resolved to watch for a proper time and circumstance to put in a useful word on this subject, remembering what Solomon says, namely, that "to every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven."  Further, from the same high source, "A word spoken in due season, how good is it."  Also, and with equal appropriateness, and at least equal beauty, "A word fitly spoken is like apples of gold in pictures of silver."  Disapprobation and reproof  more or less direct are not savoury things, and it becomes us, if we would do the will of God in this matter and be useful to our fellow men, to study and to watch in order that we may do our duty in this way in the least unacceptable manner, and with the greatest probable profit.

 I have not translated the words used above, contrary to my constant practice, because I do not wish in English to repeat these things, and this I do even at the expense of leaving some of my readers a little in the dark.  It is painful to me to record these things against my fellow passengers and kind friends, but the evil in question deserves to be noticed, and the noticing of the subject may have the tendency of preventing in some degree this light treatment of religious subjects.  I may here mention that all my companions are Roman Catholics, and that I have met with much of this irreverential and profane speaking among those of this persuasion in my journeyings  through Spanish America.  But I will not attach this evil solely to them, for I have met with something at least of a similar kind among Protestants also, and even at times in some degree with persons of good religious standing.  "These things ought not so to be."

                                                         Sunday 29th October 1843

 This is the holy sabbath and the Lord's day.  What a luxury is retirement at times, what a blessing it is to have a closet to withdraw into, and where in private we may pour out our hearts unto God.  Such retirement, and such a closet it is desirable to have on every day, but how much more is the luxury missed on the holy day of God, a day for communion with God rather than man.  I need not say that no such retirement was enjoyed by myself on board our vessel, nor by any other of our company who might have wished for it.  Under these unfavourable circumstances, it is still and nevertheless our duty to retire into ourselves for portions of the sacred day in order to wait on God by the study of his word and mental prayer; and it is also our duty to keep as clear as possible of all conversation irrelevant to the day, and on the other hand we should seek opportunities of talking of sacred things. The Spirit of God, and much wisdom and kindly feelings are necessary to enable us to act altogether alright in these matters, and in a way profitable and comfortable to ourselves and others.  Whilst however we are thus checked and hindered in our religious duties in the midst of company, there is yet one portion of religious exercises that the presence of company should not interfere with.  I mean morning and evening prayer.  Whether I sail in a ship at sea without retirement, of whether I am moving on a river in a steamboat, or sleep in a room full of people, I always consider it my duty to bow my knees before God in the morning and evening, to give him thanks and praise, and to implore his mercy and his grace.  My words are heard only by God, but my attitude and employment I cannot conceal though I could wish it.

                                                         Monday 30th October 1843

 Our voyage we find is by no means a prosperous one.  Our weather hitherto has been bad and unfavourable.  [6] Perhaps the change of the seasons has something or much to do with this.  Today for the greater part we have had rain, squalls, and variable winds.  Towards evening however we had a change for the better, as the wind was fair, and we went right on our way, at the rate of just six knots, alias miles, per hour. 

 I have already informed my reader how in the night we passengers are all strowed on the curved tops of the sacks of aniseed which form part of our cargo.  But during bad weather we are also thus cooped up and huddled together during the hours of day, and with the additional discomfort of having much or most of the fresh air excluded through the necessary precautions used to exclude the rain.  This packing and position in the torrid zone is far from being agreeable.  But we, or at least one of us had another annoyance, if not two or three.  First comes the delectableness of smoking, and delectable it must need be surely, if we may judge of the number of those who practise the luxury, and the frequency of the repetition.  All my companions were smokers.  I have lived among smokers for many years, yet I have neither learned to practise this art, nor to relish the fumigation. It is not relishable on land and in well aired places, but how much less so is it, cooped up as we were in our cabin during bad weather.  But one evil generally induces another, and smokers are also spitters: and so it was that we had the spit spitting along with the smoke smoking: and to increase the evil we had only one spit box, and that was seldom at hand.  I hate a spit box, but I hate still worse the sight of spittings all round.  Shall I say it?  There was a third annoyance, but which was perhaps only perceptible to a couple of ears.  What I refer to was the use of certain words, and allusions to certain things that English and all delicate ears dislike. Words such as mear, obrar, caca, mierda, and so on, were from time to time to be heard.  I will not translate these words and advise none to make much enquiry into their meaning. I am a traveller in foreign countries, a chronicler of what I see and hear, and I must more or less put down things that I like and dislike, things that are right and that are wrong.  "Whatsoever doth make manifest is light." This is a general adage, and I record what I disapprove of, if peradventure such notifications may tend to corrections.  Now smoking and spitting, for I must return to these nasty things, are common and very common all over these Spanish American countries, and spit boxes are to them no unsightly things.  I have seen in the Congress Hall, I will not say where, a spit box at the side of every honourable member; nor could we say of these, as Goldsmith says of some pieces of cottage furniture of which he speaks, that they were "more for ornament than for use,"  because for use they were, and they were much used.  And surely they were not ornamental, although perhaps there might be in the things something of the picturesque, or if you will, grotesque.

Tour in Yucatan - 1 November 1843

Wednesday 1st November 1843

 Our winds were easterly through the night, and hence unfavourable, as blowing from the very quarter whither we wished to go.  Today, so far as length of time is concerned, we might have closed our voyage, by an arrival at our desired haven.  But nothing is more uncertain, as every body knows who has been at sea, than a voyage in a vessel with sails in places where the winds are variable.  Though a week at sea today, we were yet considerable distance from our port.  We all regretted the want of a steamboat, and the more so as we had made our calculations when in Mexico that we would be so favoured.  But the failure of the Commissioners in effecting the object of their mission, and the unhappy printed observations animadverting and too hardly on some persons in authority brought from Yucatan to Mexico and seen there unfortunately by certain eyes, had placed us all in our present predicament.  In the afternoon the winds improved in regard to us, and continued so during the evening and night, enabling us to make from five to six knots.

 I am very sorry to have again to record disagreeableness in the way of religious lightness.  But my excuse is, that I am a chronicler, and put down what betides good and bad.  One of our company being engaged in something which does not lie in my way to name, was asked by another what he was doing.  The reply was, "Estoy haciendo lo que hacen todos los cristianos dando gracias a Dios."

I will not record any more of these improper sayings if I can well help it.  I would also remark that a less unfavourable view should be taken of my companions than these notices would seem to contain.  Infidelity is not uncommon in these quarters, but none of my fellow passengers held such views.  On the contrary, I found them to be men of religious principles, and of steady morals, and that too I may say above what was common in the county.  But this habit cannot be too much condemned, and which probably they had gathered from persons very inferior to themselves with whom they had mixed.  If ever these lines should come in the way of my companions, I hope they will excuse the liberty I have taken.  I have recorded things faithfully, for the hardness of the sayings made them be better remembered, and soon they were put down among my diary notes, where I now find them.  From the natural effect of habit leading to non-observation they may perhaps think they did not make use of these expressions.  But the certainty of their having done so cannot be weakened.  I have not assigned parties to the expressions though I could do so.  The two elder commissioners, I free of these charges, and I must not say more. 

 I have a word additional to say about smoking, or rather about the appearance of the smokers.  During the night very frequently as well as day we have this operation going on. It is curious to observe the lighted segars in the midst of the darkness, and their bright kindling up when the breath is drawn in.  This together with their motion more or less forms the appearance seen in the shining and movements of fire flies.  The circumstances brought to my mind the first night I passed on my way to the Andes from the town of Babahoyo at the head navigable waters of the River Guayaquil.  The place we stopped in, for I can hardly call it a house, consisted of a roof of thatch sustained on posts and without walls.  On a kind of loft we slept with the angle of the thatched roof above us, and not far off.  On lying down I felt somewhat uneasy, as this said roof seemed to be on fire.  I presently however found out the true cause of the fire appearance observed.  It was owing to a great number of fire flies among the thatch, and moving from place to place.  This is a pretty insect, and in some places they are to be seen in great numbers.  I once perceived a beautiful sight owing to these little brilliant creatures.  I was travelling in the country in the neighbourhood of Buenos Ayres.  We had just emerged from a large field of high thistles through which we got with difficulty.  On getting out, a kind of valley lay before us, presenting a considerable extent.  The whole seemed covered with fire, and all was in active motion. This appearance was produced by  a vast quantity of these beautiful fire flies, which bestrowed the ground before us, and were in lively action.  The appearance was as if the stars had all fallen down from the sky and were jumping to get up again to their place.  The scene was [8] beautiful, and it made a lively impression on my mind, which is still vivid before it, and will likely ever be so.

 Our two older commissioners remained almost entirely below, and also the elder Calero who was in a rather poor state of health.  With these three I had long conversations to day, and was much pleased with the enlightened views of national polity on which they evinced, and that both as to civil and ecclesiastical things.  They were all in favour of Religious Liberty, and in truth this wise national policy had been adopted in Yucatan after its separation from Mexico, and still existed in the country.  This stroke of sound legislation does great credit to the people of Yucatan, whilst it sets off in a more marked degree the ill and illiberal policy of Mexico on this score.  I think things in that country are worse now in this particular than they were when I resided in that country from 1827 to 1830.  In conversing with some leading men there two reasons have at different periods been given by way of justifying their policy or impolicy in this matter.  First they alleged when urged to treat on this subject in Congress, and to endeavour to get religious liberty established, that they could not do it because it was an article of a fundamental nature in the constitution, and could not properly be touched.  Since I heard this reason given for not bettering things there have been some three or four new constitutions formed, but yet in all of them the objectionable and illiberal article is retained, and what little alterations have been made in the wording have been with the purpose of making the evil worse.  The other reason assigned for this unwise legislation is that the mass of people were not prepared to receive and bear such a change.  But will the Mexicans say that the people of Yucatan are more advanced than they are?  I should think they would not be inclined to say so, whether it is a truth or not.  Now the Yucatan people have borne and well this change, therefore is Mexico with its false reasonings put to shame in the matter.

 I think it a duty this to laud the legislators and people of Yucatan in regard to this liberal policy, and to condemn the silliness of the Mexicans, who though they pride themselves on their greatness among the Spanish American States or New Nations, yet allow themselves to be surpassed in this matter and in some others also, by the smaller nations.  Nevertheless there are I know many in Mexico both of secular men and of the Clergy who are decidedly in favour of full religious Liberty in the country.

 But whilst I now pass this censure upon the Mexicans, I could wish to pass a heavier one upon our own country.  How silly it was for England to form a treaty at all with Mexico and its kindred New States without securing as a special article in such a treaty that all Englishmen and their descendants and connections should enjoy as free religious liberty in Mexico as Mexicans would enjoy in England.  It would of course have been better to have induced these new countries to establish free and ample toleration towards all as a portion of the basis of their nascent dominions and constitutions. From what I have seen in these countries, I am quite sure that the thing here recommended could have been easily gained, even in the more extended sense to which I have referred. Mr. Canning boasted that he created these new nations and in one sense perhaps he did, though the word created is ill applied in the case.  But if he thus formed them into nations, why did he not, with such power in his hands, induce them, or force them if necessary, to adopt the wise policy in question in a general way, or at all events on behalf of his own countrymen who might reside in those parts.  But there are more to be blamed than Mr. Canning in this case, and we may perhaps apply the censure involved to all our Rulers from his time to the present.  I believe no proper attempt has been made on our part since Mr. Canning's time to mend our own bad policy in the matter, or to improve the standing of these new countries.

 I have allowed myself to run on to this extent in the present concern arising out of a conversation with the friends before mentioned.  And this I have done because of the great importance of the subject, and if possible even now to fix the attention on the point, if peradventure some good may come out of it, and such as may be creditable and profitable to the countries named at home and abroad.

 The conversations with the three individuals above referred to continued, and gave occasion to them to unfold their views on several [9] points of national importance.  The subject of Justice came before us, which gave me occasion to speak of the high character of our English Judges, and how it was that they came to have this high standing, namely, through the intelligence diffused through the community at large, through the openness and publication of all the proceedings in our courts, and the public eye being ever on these individual judges, through which means and circumstances, I alleged not to say anything of our national character, our Judges became great and superior to all others:  whilst without these things, there was a probability or a certainty that they would be no better perhaps than others.  Their own judges, they were well aware had no such high standing in general, whatever might be the particular character of some individuals among them.  Desires were expressed to obtain such judges, and from this we were led to the subject of the general improvement and elevation of the people at large in knowledge, true religion, and purity of morals.  I gave my views in favour of general education, and in favour of the general use of the Holy Scriptures as the grand basis and directory in right religion and true morality.

 I found my friends very decidedly in favour of giving a general education to all classes of their community.  This admission led me to bring especially before them the case of the Indians inhabiting the peninsula as a people distinct from the Creoles, or descendants from European parents.  This class of  people, or distinct race, is very numerous in Yucatan, forming the main and much larger proportion of the population.  This being the case, I wished especially to fix the attention of these enlightened and worthy men on their situation, knowing that hitherto they had been greatly neglected.  I endeavoured to show them that the only way in which they could be successfully in communicating education and all else to these people was by establishing schools among them on the plan of teaching them in their own tongue which they universally and always speak.  I mentioned the wise noble and liberal plan adopted in this matter and practiced by the Gaelic School Society of Edinburgh on behalf of the northern and western inhabitants of Scotland who still cling to their own native and very ancient language. I noticed the happy and cheering results of this plan on account of its acceptableness to the people, as well as appropriateness in itself, whilst a contrary practice for a long time followed, had proved of little avail.  I stated further that I had laid this plan before the general Board of Education in Mexico, that it had been well received, and that measures had been taken to carry it into effect.  I would gladly, I said, lay the same plan before the Government of Yucatan, and would lend my little services towards carrying it forward so far as my stay in the country and other duties would permit me.  Besides giving education to the Indians, I urged the duty of doing them justice in seeing that they had their due rights, and more were not oppressed by the large proprietors.  I mentioned how much injustice was done to the Indians in Mexico; and concluded by saying that if care were not taken by their superiors to see them enjoy justice and fairness, that God himself would interpose for them, and that in the event of this they would find that the account would cost them more to settle it than now.

 All our friends agreed as to the propriety of carefully looking into the Indian's case, and also in regard to this plan of teaching them in their own tongue, and I was glad to see that they did so and more especially to observe this desire strong in Mr. Rejón because he was the chief Secretary of State, and therefore had much in his power, and could do more than persons in unofficial life.

 I take this opportunity of saying a few words as to the feelings and practices throughout Spanish America generally, on the subject of Education. From the number of places I have visited, as formerly noticed, and from my having taken an active part in education in different places for several years, I judge that I may have come to at a tolerable knowledge of the true state or things in this very important subject.  My opinion on the matter is highly favourable to the people of these countries.  I have found in all of them a decided opinion and impression in favour of extending education and general knowledge among all classes of the people including the lowest.  This view is alike adopted and fostered by the Governments, by the Priests, and by all portions of the community who are able to enter into any understanding of the subject.  I never once heard, what has been heard elsewhere, that the poor should not be taught.

 I would also beg to say a word in favour of these people and governments respecting the subject of slavery.  All the new states in question have acquitted [10] themselves well in this matter; and when seized with the spirit of liberty, they showed that it was not a mere selfish feeling, but a generous one also.  On declaring their own freedom, they likewise declared with the same breath the freedom of the slave, first by enacting that from the day of their own liberty no one should be born a slave within their respective territories, and secondly, by adopting measures for the gradual and final cessation of slavery amongst them.  These acts, and which were common alike to all these New Countries, do them great credit.  It is painful to compare these measures with a contrary practice in a more enlightened land lying northward, and in the same Western hemisphere.

 In treating of advancing and establishing sound morals, I adverted to the trite but highly important subject of common honesty in paying lawful debts, and advised that if the government wished the people to be honest, it should set the example in being honest itself, by rigidly keeping its word to the public in the payment of their loans, or in the punctual payment of the interest on the same which would amount to nearly or rather entirely to the same thing.

 I showed how this business had been mismanaged in the United States, and what been the consequence: also how Mexico had lost itself after a similar manner.  On the other hand I showed the fidelity of the English government, and the happy results attending it.  It was true, I said, that the originally contracted debts were not paid, but by a rigidly punctual payment of interest, or dividends as they are called, it was a virtual payment, because any individual creditor could at any time resume his principal by selling his claims on the government to some other, and that these sales could always be effected.  Besides, I added, our government in not paying the principal broke no engagement, and failed in no respects to fidelity.  The sums were borrowed on condition of paying an annual percentage on them, with leave to pay off the principal, but under no obligation to do so.

 I had a double purpose in stating these things, one was to show the faithfulness and stability of our English government administration, and to clear up mysteries which hang on the subject before foreigners, and to remove errors as to our exact national situation.  The other object I had in view was to instruct by these examples the friends mentioned, and thus contribute to the welfare of their country.  My reader must not suppose that all I have here stated was delivered in the uninterrupted order as here given. In questions and answers all was conducted.  The statements were not put forth gratuitously on my part, but were elicited by questions put by one and another from time to time as we went on with our conversation.  The whole is put here briefly together and given as part of my traveller's journal.  I must add at closing that I was greatly pleased with the inquiries made, the interest taken, and the purposes evinced, on the part of my friends.

I now turn to another subject found in my notes.  It is a domestic and a personal one.  How swiftly the thoughts cross the widest ocean! How far distant at times from each other are our body and our mind!  Here I am sailing on the Gulf of Mexico, and here am I deeply engaged in warm and interesting conversations with foreigners in a foreign tongue.  Yet on the same day, and near the same hour I am, at least my mind is, and my feelings and affections are elsewhere and far off, and at home.  I have already told my reader in the brief sketch given him of my tours, that I parted from my dear wife in the city of New York, in July 1842 she going from then Eastward to England, and I sailing Southwards on a second visit to Mexico.  Gladly would she have come with me, and braved all the troubles of travelling, and it is meet I should do her honour, as I now do, in  stating the same.  But the nature of my prospective excursion rendered it every way injudicious that she should accompany me.  I was here then anew in the midst of my wanderings and alone.  But my thoughts were often, as may well be supposed, at home and with my wife;  and whilst duty commanded me to travel, yet it was not contrary to duty that I should hope once more to revisit my native country, and be again with my tender spouse, who hoped for my return.  With those feelings dwelling full on my mind, I turned them into a prayer by somewhat varying a verse of Logan's beautiful piece on Providence.  I rendered it thus:-

 Oh! spread thy covering wings around

Till all my wanderings cease,

And at my tender spouse's side

I rest, in joy and peace.

 I added also to this, Logan's own words, and made them a prayer for us both:-

 [11]                                And at our Father's loved abode

       Our souls arrive in peace.[1]

 Forgive, Gentle Reader, this domestical conjugal paragraph;  and I know you will do so, if you are a husband or a wife, or have been so or expect to be so allied.

 At half past eight this evening we sounded, and found we were in 14 fathoms' water.  We were in fact got on to the Banks of Yucatan.  These banks extend out from the land to a considerable distance, and are dangerous in navigation.  There is an old and still existing order, that no vessel shall attempt to pass from the deep water on to the shallows and uncertainties of these banks during the night.  We transgressed this order, and as it turned out with impunity.  But both the banks and the manner of navigating are better understood now than when the order mentioned was issued.  Our captain was a native of Campeachy on the coast opposite to us, as before stated, and had sailed much over these banks, and therefore felt some degree of confidence as to his situation and safety.  At 9 p.m. we caught a fish called sierra.

 [1] From the Hymn "O God of Bethel, by Whose hand..."-- words by Philip Doddridge (1737), recast by John Logan (1781). BM.

Tour in Yucatan -  3-6 November 1843

Friday 3rd November 1843

 We had fine weather this morning. Our course was Northward, for we had got too far to the South. The breeze was good.  Astern of us we saw a vessel, and it is always a pleasing sight to observe a sail at sea out of sight of land.  It gives us a companion in the vast unlimited field of the ocean, and takes off the loneliness. This was the first one we had seen since we fairly started.

 At one o'clock in the afternoon we caught a fish called  here the Cason, which had all the appearance of being a young shark; but it is otherwise  considered, and is cooked and relished, and this is not so with regard to the shark, toward which we have a natural dislike. The sierra we caught last night, and which was dressed this morning for breakfast, though dryish, was grateful food, and proved moreso by the change of diet it afforded us. I preferred this same also to dinner rather than partake of this shark looking fish that came last into our hands. At 3 P.M. we caught a third fish, and one better than either of the other two.  The name is Esmedregal, and it is the choice fish of this quarter, and is much sought after and relished.  So much so, it is said, that the Epicure will look out for the drawing to land of the fishing boat, and will eagerly inquire for this fish, and if found will pay a good price for it, as much frequently as six dollars, and will carry it off in triumph, rejoicing that he has been so fortunate in thus providing for his taste, and that he has  what perhaps no other person will obtain that day, for the fish is not abundant but rare, at least compared with many others here found.

 On these banks where we now were, I was told by the captain who knew much, that fish was to be found in great plenty, and he stated it as his opinion that if capital and industry were applied on these fishing grounds, they would most probably be found not much inferior to the famous banks of Newfoundland.  It will be long, I fear, before either Yucatan or Mexico can supply the two articles above referred to, capital and industry, and hence we may expect that the fish will yet enjoy a long state of repose and undisturbed possession of their ancient inheritance. 

 Here perhaps is the most befitting time for saying a few words respecting these banks and others in this quarter, and the Mexican Gulf generally, and the streams which run into it and run out of it, with other analogous matter.

 One of the steadiest winds on the surface of the globe is that which blows within the tropics from the coast of Africa westward to America.  On the North side of the equator it blows from a point some what Northeast, and more or less so according to its distance from the Line.  This permanent, and generally pretty strong breeze, forces the waters of the Atlantic Ocean and of the Caribbean Sea on to the coast of South America, and so westwards and out to the Main along the coasts of Guatemala.  This current of water is checked by the peninsula of Yucatan against which it rushes.  It then turns Northward, and moves along the Eastern shores of Yucatan to Cape Catoche.  After this it takes a Westerly direction still moving along the coast, and then a little South of West as far as the port of Sisal, where and onwards it is less visible.  [12] This current thus rushing continually into the Gulf of Mexico must necessarily find a way out somewhere, and this it does by the Northern leaf, as one might say, of the door by which it entered and which hinges, following out the same figure, or the Southern coast of the Florida promontory and extending to Cuba.  After getting out it becomes the well known Gulf Stream, which may be considered, not the greatest River but certainly the greatest stream of water in the world. Its breadth in the narrowest part  is about 40 miles, its current from 3 to 5, and its depths unknown.  It pursues its way to the Southern coast of Newfoundland, and thence turning Eastward, and then Southward, reaches the western coast of Africa, whence the water first began to flow;  and thus, as is figured in the serpent circle, puts its tail into the mouth and completes the round.

 This stream carrying with it the materials of the rivers which it meets with in skirting along the coast of the Spanish Main, has formed the keys, banks and islands lying off Belize and the Eastern coast of Yucatan, and the still more extended banks on the North and West of the peninsula: also the lesser banks around the Gulf of Mexico, and finally the Great Bank of Newfoundland, as all the world knows who have eaten of cod fish, abounds with this fish and others, and has become a living treasure.

 The Banks of Yucatan on which we now were in the course of our voyage are also rich in fish of various kinds as has been before indicated.  We had already caught three with our little cane and indifferent materials, and all different from each other.  I had a good deal of further conversation with our captain on the subject of this bank and its population of fish, as also with my fellow passengers, and all stated, that were the fishing here properly attended to, with a due amount of capital and supply of industry it would be productive of great national and commercial advantage, and would they conceived be worthy of a fair comparison with the famous banks of Newfoundland in proportion to their relative extent.  The Yucatan banks may be put down at 170 miles long by 150 broad.  In consequence of this great sea stream above noticed sweeping along the Northern coast of the isthmus of Panama it has very generally been thought that the sea level on the North side was greater than that on the South. Having resided from two to three years in Peru on the coasts of the Pacific Ocean, and thus learned that there is a southerly course of winds creating and continuing a stream to the North, and on to Panama, I never thought that the Pacific was higher than the Atlantic in the place referred to. This question long remained in doubt, but is now settled, and on the side of the equality of the waters of the two oceans. This was done by Capt. Lloyd at the expense of General Bolivar and the Colombian government.

 In regard to the height of the waters in the Gulf of Mexico, and those on the opposite coast of the Pacific, I consider things are different, and believe that the height of the Gulf waters is considerably above that of the level of the Pacific in the quarter of Acapulco.  From there being no western outlet to the Gulf, the waters must rise, as it were into a heap, and it is this heaping up of the water that enables them to force their way against the entering stream taking the other side of the opening, and thus also is formed the head and source of the great sea river or Gulf Stream.

 The power of the winds in raising the waters on the ocean or elsewhere, and in causing  unequal levels of surface is much greater I believe than what is generally imagined. I have witnessed one or rather two of the most striking instances of this kind and I have to record them.  The River Plate opposite the city of Buenos Ayres is about 30 miles wide, and goes on increasing its width during its course of some 200 miles till it enters the ocean with a mouth of say 150 miles wide. On this expanse of water the wind has great power, and the effects of its elevation and depression are very considerable.  On one occasion under a strong westerly wind which lasted for two or three days the waters receded from their usual border, and the bed of the river became dry for some miles.  Some few years before, I was told, the extent of bed left uncovered was double what it was in the instance which came under my own notice.

 On the other hand, during my residence in Buenos Ayres the river rose very high above its usual under strong easterly wind of two or three days  continuance.  On this occasion all the vessels in the harbour, or rather on the anchorage, for there is no proper harbour, were driven ashore, except two; and ships of great size together with large brigs and all the small [13] craft were carried and left on the land beyond the usual bank of the river.

 After this longish digression, yet on analogous subjects, I return to the journalling of items of occurrence on the voyage.  In the course of the day where we now stand in our journal, one of the passengers prepared a drink called pinóle of which he partook, and with due Spanish courtesy offered unto others.  This drink is of Indian invention, and consists chiefly of toasted and bruised maize, coloured, and improved as it is considered, by some anotta.  This is used by the Indians of Yucatan as a substitute for chocolate, which generally costs a good deal more whereas this can be made up very cheap. It is taken both hot and cold according to different tastes, and also the different degrees of heat in the weather may demand.  On the present occasion, as the weather was hot, we had it cold.  I tried it, and found it to have a pleasant taste and flavour.  This is one instance in which the Indian customs are adapted by their masters the European race. Other examples of this will come before us in due time.

                                                       Saturday 4th. November 1843

 The weather was fine this morning, and the wind if not quite fair, yet did it enable us to get on our way.  At daylight we were gratified with the sound and the sight of land, always a delightful sound at sea, and a delightful sight.  It lay about 8 miles off, and was very low, and could only be seen from a short distance.  On the south west we saw a schooner making its way in the direction we were going.  This, I think, is only the second vessel we had seen on the course of our voyage, and I wondered to see so few.  But the non-intercourse act now in force between Mexico and Yucatan accounted for their rarity in part.

 At 4 o'clock in the afternoon we had a fine breeze from the N. by W. point.  This is the direction of the Northers, and it is the only time in which we have had this wind since leaving Veracruz.  I have already noticed how gratifying this wind was to us in itself, but that at the same time it gave us fear least it should increase in power to become dangerous.

 At half past nine at night we cast anchor in front of Haltunchingo Estate or farm, in the Spanish, called hacienda.  This was eight leagues south of Campeachy.  The land here was considerably higher than that which we had seen in the morning, and might vary from 50 to 200 feet.  It was pleasantly waved, with its knolls in a rounded form.

Here and now, I may say, I got the first lesson in the native language of Yucatan, called the Mayo.  I was told that in pronouncing the word Haltunchingo, I ought to sound the h and make it like the Spanish j which is the same in kind as our h, but pronounced more strongly.  The h in the Spanish language never sounds at all, and it is singular that it should have been used as here, and not the j which would have been the most suitable letter.

 We had now crossed the Gulf of Mexico, though we had not yet arrived at our port. We had been ten days, which might be considered nearly double the time of a fair passage in a sailing vessel.  From Veracruz to Campeachy is about 300 miles, and this distance could be made in a good steam boat in a day and a half, but I think I have heard that our Mexican steamer took two days being less properly managed perhaps than they should be.  But a story is told by Alcedo of a voyage between these two places so far back as 1665 in 24 hours. This was long before the era of steam boats, or ever, I might say, of steam itself, at least as a moving power.  The reason given for this rapid voyage is, that the vessel in question carried an image of San Ramon which was being removed from Mexico to Yucatan, by a person of the name of John Cano.

 It was well John Cano was not made to pay a forced visit to the Inquisition after this short voyage.  This reminds me of a story I heard while in Peru regarding a voyage from Lima to Valparaiso.  As the wind blows steadily from the southward, as was indicated farther back, along the coast of Peru, a voyage southward generally takes at the present time about three times as long as performing the same distance moving from south to north. On one occasion a voyage was performed in half the shortest usual time, and the Captain stating this was put forthwith into the Inquisition, from a conviction in the mind of the authorities that there must have been witchcraft in the matter.  The truth was, the Captain of this vessel had been driven out to sea, where the winds are more favourable, and so accomplished his voyage in the short time referred to.  The true cause however of his success was in due time found out, and thenceforward vessels instead of creeping along the shore as formerly made at once out to sea, and sailed then southward at a considerable distance from the coast.

 [14]                                                Sunday 5th.  November 1843

 This was a lovely morning, and befitting the commencement of the day of rest and peace, of heavenly tranquillity and joy.  But there is no rest at sea, there is no sabbath there, the ship never rests on the ocean: and how seldom does the Captain with his crew keep the day as it might be kept, notwithstanding of the working of the vessel, which, I suppose, must be considered as a work of necessity.  Nevertheless it is pleasing to know, that in these advanced days in which we live, there are many English and Anglo-American vessels, if not others besides, where the sabbath is well distinguished, and made a day of rest and holy religious exercises.

 We raised our anchor this morning at half past three and consequently before daylight.  The soundings gave three fathoms water.  The wind was light and we moved slowly.  The land was very distinctly seen by us as soon as the light of day came and advanced.  We saw shrubs but no trees.  The superficial line indicated a limestone formation.  One of our passengers indicated that there were many caverns on the coast in the shape of hollow indentations at first formed perhaps, and now occupied by the ocean waters.  This corresponds with marly rocks.

At half past six we passed Sihó estate, where we observed a large and fine house, having a broad flight of steps from it down into the water.  The house presented two fine arcs in front, and there were two pillars on each side of a gateway.  On the south of it we counted about twenty coconut trees; and this was all the indication we could perceive of cultivation, for else all the land appeared covered over with a sort of brush wood.  The size however, and the general appearance of the house, were proofs that there was cultivation of some sort though not visible to us.

 At half past seven we saw, and sailed past, Seyba Playa, a village containing, I was informed, 3000 inhabitants. It had not an appearance corresponding to such a population, but this discrepancy of appearance and reality was explained to me by stating that a goodly portion of land around with its scattered inhabitants were included in the census.  The village church was stately and suited to a large population.  It had a fine exterior appearance.  It was whitened, and so were the houses generally, which gave the whole village a cleanly and pleasant aspect.  This town  lies 18 miles from Campeachy, and to the south of it.

 Soon after this we passed a well known head land called Paipotorí, and then others of less note, but our captain who was familiar with all the coast knew every point as it presented itself.  And how pleasant it is to be under a guide who is well acquainted with the way, and in whose integrity and good will we can confide.  This observation leads me to that precious guide in the voyage of life, and also of death, the Bible, that blessed Book which is the volume of study of all who seek to be rightly guided, and more especially the study of this sacred day.  But all have not this volume to guide them.  Those who have it, as the boon of God to them, should surely give it to others and to all.  Such is the object of the Institution with which I am immediately connected, and the hallowed object of my travels is to give this Book of life to those who have it not.  This is surely a blessed employment, and it is worth while to suffer many privations by sea and by land in so honourable and useful an occupation.

 I seized the opportunity of this day to speak anew to my two countrymen on the  highest of all concerns, because it was the Lord's day, and the day especially of such subjects, & also because in all probability I should not be another day with them.  They can both read, but neither of them had a Bible.  I advised them of course to procure for themselves this sacred book whenever they had an opportunity of doing so.  I was sorry I could not furnish them myself, but all the Bibles I had with me were in the Spanish language which they could not read.  I again also brought before them our guilty state, the pardon offered to us through faith in the Blood of Christ, and the eternal weight of glory set before us if we follow the Lamb whithersoever he goeth.

At half past four in the afternoon we had a fair and good breeze which brought us quickly on, and we drew apace to the harbour of Campeachy.  The land lying to the Northward seemed to be about 200 feet high: it was gently waved, and had few or no knolls in its outline.

 At half past six, just as it was getting or became dark we cast anchor.  We had boats along side presently, and at seven [15] we came ashore. We were met and received at the shore by a great crowd of people, partly because it was a holiday, and partly because the arrival of a vessel here during the non intercourse with Mexico was rather a rare occurrence.  But there was another and powerful motive to the gathering together of so many to salute us on our arrival.  The commissioners had anxiously been expected for some weeks, and it being fully believed that our vessel brought them, all hastened down to the water's edge to learn whether it were peace or war with Mexico, or whether a treaty of amity had been concluded or not.  The news we brought were not those of peace and re-alliance with Mexico.  Peace was desired most probably by the country at large, but not a few of the people of this town of Campeachy were, I believe, well enough inclined to further hostilities rather than acquiesce in a reunion with Mexico, towards which they bear no very friendly feeling.

 The three commissioners were welcomed back again to their native province, and warmly,  by the authorities and others.  The rest of our passengers had also their friends to greet them.  The congratulations and the embraces in Spanish style were many;  and it is always pleasant to see every expression of social and friendly feeling, and the more sincere and warm it is the more gratification it affords.  One passenger alone had no congratulations and no embrace.  It was the poor foreigner.  But if he had none of these kindly acts bestowed on himself, he was yet happy in seeing them bestowed on others, and on his voyage companions, whom he esteemed, for the kindly attentions he had received from them all during the voyage.

I waddled my way, though with some difficulty, through this great crowd, and directed my steps to La Casa de las Diligencias, alias the Stage Tavern, which I had been informed was the best, if not the only Inn of the place.  A boy carried my bag, and was guide and pioneer, and soon we reached the place: it was a large house and full of people and bustle.  Fortunately I got half a  room to myself which, I considered a great acquisition, and I was  further cheered with the promise of next day getting an entire room for my own use.  Here in retirement, whilst my room companion was out, I had an opportunity of bowing down before the Lord, and giving him thanks for his preservations and all his goodness to us on this voyage, and of imploring him to bless me and make me a blessing in this new land of my wanderings. 

                                                        Monday 6th November 1843

Campeachy is a walled city with gates and bars, and had very recently endured a long siege by the Mexican troops.  Hostilities had ceased during the last few months, but the war was rather suspended than terminated.  In consequence of this half warlike state in which it was, the defence and military position of things, were kept up.  Hence in the night a full quota of sentinels was kept at their posts, the same as when the enemy was before the gates and around the walls.  As I awoke at times during the night, I could hear distinctly the sentinels cry Alerta!  This brought fresh to my mind a travelling incident of 1824.  Towards the close of that year  I was travelling from the city of Quito near the Equator, on to Popayan, along the great valley between the two ridges or cordilleras of the Andes.  The province of Pastos was then in an insurrectionary state, and was infested with banditti. We had a guard of 10 men to take us into the town of Pasto the capital of the Province, but afterwards we were obligated to take with us no less than 40.  On the second or third night after we started we encamped on the open ground where about a week before a party of travellers with a guard of 17 soldiers was attacked and robbed, and most of them murdered.  Here we kept three sentinels placed all night;  and from a combination of circumstances, the sentinels cry of Alerta! was well fixed in my mind.  We slept in safety that night, for the Lord sustained us, and in safety we passed through the whole of the disturbed district, and arrived in Popayan.  Well it becomes me, in remembrance of this and many preservations, to praise and bless the gracious hand that has protected me, and delivered me from all my fears.  My present position amidst sentinels [16] awakens my remembrance of these things, and I trust my gratitude to the Father of Mercies. 

 Early in the morning I went out to the fish market which was held just outside the gate on the mole.  It was pretty well stocked with fish, and there were not a few buyers, for fish if not a favourite food here, is at least the most common, particularly with the poor owing to its cheapness.  I was rather surprised to see the fish cut up in many cases, and into small portions, and so disposed of, for the smallest coins current in the place.  This was explained to me as arising from the great poverty of many, owing to the late and long siege the place had sustained.  Fish was also sold here in another form, not fresh out of the water, but I may say instead, fresh out of the frying pan.

 At 8 o'clock in the morning I went on board for my luggage, and for the Bibles I had brought.  I landed both luggage and books, and brought all to the Custom house.  As usual the luggage or parts of it were looked into but without much, and no troublesome examination; and the same cannot be said of all Custom house searches and searchers.  We next came to the Books, and  that case they would open, the officer observing that there were many bad books, and which ought not to have entrance into the country.  The meaning he affixed to the word bad I did not know, and felt therefore some fears as to my treasure, for I had heard these precious Books stigmatized with the term bad.  The case was opened, and a New Testament was brought out, opened forthwith, and a portion of it read.  "Oh," said the officer "This is a good book."  This was a cheering sound to me, and I blessed God who had so disposed his mind as to see the books in this light.  Others of the books were looked at, and all with the same favourable opinion regarding them.  I then stated that I intended to dispose of a portion of the books in the town, and where the sale would be.  I was greatly pleased to see the anxiety of some present about obtaining these books, and with none more than one of my fellow passengers who said "Don't let me go without one of these Bibles for my wife."  He was about to go to Merida the capital where his wife and family were, and put in this caveat in time that he might not be disappointed.

  The name of this gentleman I give, as I have much more to say about him, and all in his favour, and much of it as connected with the Holy Scriptures, and their distribution in the country.  It is Don Vicente Calero.  This gentleman whilst we were in Veracruz very kindly assisted me in my passport and other business, and seemed to have a pleasure in doing me service. On the day we went on board as we were still, and at anchor, we all entered into a general conversation, and part of this consisted in enquiries on my part as to Yucatan, and answers on their part, and partly also concerning the nature of my business there.  During the conversation I well remember that this gentleman in a very courteous and friendly manner invited me  to make use of his services when in Yucatan in any and every way in which he could be of use to me.  I was now arrived in Yucatan, and needed his counsel, and the advantages of his knowledge of the country, and of individuals in this place.  I applied to him, and not in vain.  I wanted to be made acquainted with some person or persons of confidence in this town of Campeachy to aid me  in the disposal of my books.  My friend could not stay long in Campeachy himself, and thus personally help me.  But he brought to me a gentleman of his acquaintance who lived there, and on introducing us to each other, said, that his friend would gladly give me every assistance in his power.  His friend amply ascented to what had been said regarding him in the matter and thus we were brought into immediate relationship.

 The name of this friend I must also give, as he rendered me efficient services in the sale of my books according to his promise, and in several other things, and all was done readily and gracefully.  His name is Don Rafael Carbajal.  He is a native of the place, and is of very respectable connexions.  The first service he rendered me was to ask for a copy of each of my books, and then to go with the same among his friends and acquaintances showing them as sacred books, beautiful books, and cheap books, and all these characters they truly had.  Through his kindly services and influences I disposed during the first day of my stay here several copies, and all at full price, and I may [18] say, rather above it than below in this instance. 

 Last night soon after my arrival I had a visit from Mr. Charles Thompson late the American Consul at Sisal, and who was now in his way homeward, going to embark in this port for New Orleans, and from there to proceed to Boston his native place.  Today this gentleman called again, being about to embark in the evening.  He kindly offered to take any letters for me, or do me any other service in the States that might be in his power.  I felt much obliged by the attentions and offers of this gentleman, and esteemed them the more perhaps as coming from one of my own name, and hence a kind of relative however distant.  I said I would avail myself of his kindness in forwarding one letter by him, to be put into the post office at New Orleans for Boston, and to go from thence by the Halifax Steamers to England.  This letter was for my Wife, and I was glad of such and early and good opportunity of letting her know of my safe arrival in Yucatan, and the more so because I had feared the want of opportunities of forwarding letters from hence, and had from Veracruz apprised her not to expect either early or regular  communications from me whilst I might be in this peninsula.  It is always gratifying to give more pleasure than one promises to afford.  This satisfaction I now had in the letter I was about to forward, and I thanked my distant cousin for affording me such an opportunity. 

 Mr. Thompson though Consul for Sisal lived in Merida the capital, of which Sisal is the Port, and lying at the distance of 12 leagues.  He gave me much information in regard to the country in general, and as to parties, and persons.  Of some individuals he spoke favourably, of others highly, and of some his opinion was that they were not above par, and others he spoke of as under it.  We all naturally, and I may say irresistibly, form our opinions of our fellow men with whom we come into contact.  Sometimes our judgements are correct, and at other times not so, from want perhaps of sufficient knowledge, or from some warpings arising from personal circumstances.  How far my friend's opinions were correct for and against persons named by him I was not able to judge, and kept my mind as much  unprepossessed as I could till I should verify all personally as far as I might have opportunities of doing so.  In the meantime I was under obligations to this friend for all his communications, which were given for my direction and benefit.  Mr. Thompson sailed the same evening, [and although it is an anachronism, I would add, that he faithfully carried and forwarded my letter, and also, I may say, that it duly arrived, and gave the anticipated pleasure I have referred to.]

 I also met here two young American Gentlemen who were travelling as Dentists.  They had been some time in Yucatan, and complained of indifferent success.  They were now about to visit Mexico, and were anxious to learn all they could respecting that country.  I accordingly gave them various notices regarding the place to which they were going, and had thus an opportunity of indirectly repaying Mr. Thompson for the information he had favoured me with as to Yucatan and Merida, in making communications to his two countrymen.  How often does  God in his all-wise providence repay men for the good they do to others, by doing them good by the hands of what I may call a third party!  And again, how often does God in his all-righteous judgements bring punishments upon men for the evil they have done to their fellow creatures, not by the hands of the injured party but by the hands of some other.  It seems to be one of God's eternal laws, that good done will be rewarded with good, and injury done will be repaid by injury.  We cannot too much keep this statute before our eyes, for in seeing it, and conducting ourselves under its influences, we will avoid the doing and receiving of evil, and will do and receive much good.  When Franklin some ten years after he had greatly relieved and benefited an individual with some money, was offered the same sum in repayment, he said, No, but give it, he said, to some other person whom you may meet with in distress, and bid him in turn act in a similar way, and let good go round to the benefit of all. 

 Some modes and customs prevail in some countries, whilst the same are never seen in other parts;  and on the other hand, some [18] habits and practices prevailing in different places are considerably modified and varied in particular districts. One of these variations in the use of a common article or food, or as a beverage I have met with, as compared to Mexico, from which I had just come. Chocolate is of universal use in Mexico, more so, I suppose, than in any country in the world. In Mexico the chocolate is always served in a very small cup, called a pozuelo, and it is always used in a comparatively thickish state, and thus also I have invariably seen it used all over Spanish America. But here in Yucatan and Campeachy, and for the first time, have I seen a deviation from a little cup and a thickish mode of taking this beverage. It is served up here in a large cup, and again it is very thin compared to Mexican thickness. This breakfast cup may perhaps contain the quantity of four pozuelos, and the thinness to the thickness is in the same proportion, as equal weights of this solid chocolate are used for both quantities. My attention was at once drawn to this difference in a  common custom.  A cause it must have, although I could not find it out, for causeless, we may safely say, nothing comes, great or small, in one sense or in another.

 The captain of our vessel called on me to day previous to his setting out for Sisal in which place his cargo was to be discharged, and where also we passengers would have landed had the winds and the weather conducted us to that place with more facility and speed than to this port.  I have noticed things as occurring in an early part of our voyage unpleasant to my own senses, and evil in themselves.  I refer to a sort of jesting mode on religious things.  Our Captain and some others, not all, were implicated in this.  I seized the present opportunity in private conversation of noticing the subject to the Captain, and of stating my views as to its impropriety  and hurtfulness, and mentioned things said by himself.  He took in very good part my intimations, and stated that what he said did not arise from a disrespect to religion.  He thanked me for the private and kindly manner, as he was pleased to express it, in which  I had noticed the subjects to him, and said he would not have been so well pleased if I had publicly noticed the matter of the time, and he referred to the Spanish proverb which says, "Commend your friend in public, but reprove him privately."  I was very much gratified with the result of this little notification which I ventured to make, and we parted not only good, but rather, I may say, affectionate friends.

Not long after my friend the captain had left me, I was grieved with an account I heard of certain occurrences very unfavourable to his interests.  During the time he was ashore the mob, or a lawless party of the same, went out to his vessel, took off from her the rudder, unfastened the sails and the rigging, and brought all away, and deposited them in a place of security.  I have already intimated, a little back, that the Campechanos, alias the people of Campeachy, bore no friendly feelings towards Mexico.  In addition to other causes as exciting this disfavour, one had lately occurred, and which led directly to the lawless act I have here noticed.

 This was the seizure of two or three vessels in Tobasco which belonged to this port.  Tobasco is a part of Mexico and is the place to which General Alpudia had retired from Yucatan with the remnant of the Mexican troops, & of the same province he had become the governor.  In need of some articles from Yucatan, Gen. Alpudia had granted certain licenses for the entrance of some vessels into Tobasco from Yucatan, notwithstanding the existence of the non intercourse law.  When those vessels arrived the Collector of the Customs refused to acknowledge the licenses granted by the governor, and seized the vessels.  It was in reprisals for these seizures that our vessel had been despoiled of her rudder, sails, and rigging, and was about to be confiscated and sold.  There was much ferment in the public mind on this subject, particularly among the sailor public, and this body is of considerable strength and numbers here, possessing great influence, and not always easily regulated.  Our political head here, styled Gefe Politico Superior, used his endeavours with much prudence and wisdom to control the threatened and rising commotion, and his sound judgement and courteous mildness [19] contained and controlled the rather unmanageable materials, and so the peace was kept so far as this matter of the sailors and the vessel were concerned.

 But the events of this day were not yet over, not our peace secured, for another matter also agitated the public, and a different portion of it perhaps, although not excluding this, which we may say has a hand in every row. One of our passengers, as I have already intimated, belonged to this place. At the break out between Mexico and Yucatan he was an officer in the army. He did not go over to the Yucatan side, but continued in the Mexican service, but yet he had not fought against Yucatan but was employed in the military services of Mexico on the opposite side of the Gulf. He had now quitted that service, and returned to his native town and family. His return created a considerable sensation, as he was looked upon as a kind of negative traitor at least to his country. An amnesty and oblivion it is true had been signed between both parties as to all causes and matters of this kind, but that was, as I may call it, a sort of paper compact only, and little known, and less regarded by the public, especially, of the lower grades of it. Squibs were let off in Great Square, and this was the mode of calling a public meeting in which high subjects were to be discussed, and public deeds were to be performed.  A great gathering took place, and as a certain Colonel, with whom a little before I had been speaking in the house, was moving onward to the place of resort, a man put his arm into his unasked, and said, "Vamos a la Plaza, el pueblo quiere operar," expression which may be translated "Let's go to the Square, the people wish to act, or perform some act."  In this manner this gentleman was forced in part and ushered into the Plaza, the man calling out at the same time, Que opere el pueblo, that is "Let the people act."  This expression was ambiguous in itself, but on inquiring I learned that the act indicated by the expression was one of the worst we could suppose, and meant no less than an assassination. 

 The colonel thus ushered in to the Plaza was brought there, and the attention called to him, as supposing him to be the delinquent referred to.  The mistake however was soon found out, for this colonel had served in the Yucatan ranks, and was well known in person to many, and as a brave defender of the fortress of Campeachy, and  thus he escaped, though narrowly, from being a victim to popular ferment and fury. The delinquent himself was apprised of these things, and at the Governor's wise request remained a prisoner in his own house, until the tumult should be quieted, and till information upon the matter and himself should be sought for and obtained from the general Government in the capital. Thus ended the second day of my visit to the Yucatan, and a day full of events, and not devoid of serious fears and dangers, both as to public and private safety

Tour in Yucatan -  7-8 November 1843

Tuesday 7th November 1843.

 In looking over this house today in which I was lodged, namely, La Casa de las Diligencias, I observed in different parts of the back walls the visible effects of the cannon balls which the Mexicans had thrown into the city during the long and fruitless siege which had lately come to a close, honourable to the besieged, and otherwise to their opponents.  The walls were holed though with these balls, and it seemed, as far as I had been able to learn, that the objects of the besiegers was rather to annoy the inhabitants, and thus to induce to a rendition of the place,  than, as brave warriors would have done - the English say, had the case been theirs - by making a breach and passing forthwith through it into the streets and to the citadel. But I must say no more at present concerning this besiegement till I inform myself more fully on the subject on both sides, for I would not wish on any subject to come to a judgement after hearing one side only.  There are two parties and sides in all cases, and it is but the commonest justice, although uncommon enough, to hear with both ears, or both parties, and each fairly.  My information hitherto was from Mexico, with the exception of what I learned from my friends on our voyage. 

I priced some things today as I moved about, and found all articles considerably cheaper than in Veracruz.  The Captain during our voyage had told me this, and stated that 40 or 50 percent less might be the difference in favour of cheapness here.  In Merida things are cheaper still, I learn, than in Campeachy.  Here perhaps may be a proper place to say, that Yucatan has its own tariff, as distant from that of Mexico, and not only is it so during the present disassociation from Mexico, but it was also different when the union of the two prevailed.  Also, I may add, that during the Spanish rule the tariffs of Mexico and Yucatan [20] were different; certain privileges also had always been granted to this province under the Colonial regime, and from a consideration of the  peculiar circumstances of the position and climate of Yucatan as distinct from Mexico.  Flour, for instance, was allowed to be imported into Yucatan, but never into Mexico, as Yucatan, owing to its West India climate, grows no wheat, whilst in at Mexico grows it extensively, and of the finest quality.  The latitudes of the two places differ little, but it is the altitude of the Mexican table lands which raises them into the temperature zone, and gives them its productions, whilst the coast is heated to full torridzonian height, and yields the tropical products in all their richness. It is justice to the Rulers of Yucatan to say, that they understand custom house revenues, and the general good of their country, better than their friends in Mexico, and this may have convinced by the lowness of the duties charged on imported articles, as compared with the charges made on the same articles in the different part of Mexico.  They have shown also their desire for public advancement in knowledge by charging nothing on book imports.

  As I was coming out of a shop this evening, I was accosted in the street in English. I found, by self explanation, that the person addressing me was from New Orleans, but was a native of Dublin, and that his name was Peter Murphy.

 My lodging is near the Sea gate, and I can see it, and all that passes in and out, from the balcony over the street, and right in front of the wall,  with a street-width only between.  One of the things I observe as I look from this balcony, is the helm that guided my way from Veracruz to this port, and which, as before mentioned, was lawlessly taken from our vessel.  It was on a range of cannon, close beside the wall in a little recess and in full sight of the sentinel who stands at the gate.  Our vessel is still at anchor in the harbour, and is well distinguished from others by her dismantled state.  The question of her confiscation and sale, or her restoration and leave to proceed, are still pending, all having been referred to the general government for decision, and time sufficient has not yet elapsed for the due answer from Government.  In the mean time the Captain, though in much painful anxiety, from the ill treatment he has received, and from fear of consequences, is yet consoled in a certain measure by spending the leisure he enjoys with his relatives and friends in this city which gave him birth.

 From the same balcony, I had my attention drawn to the said sentinel who eyes and guards this stolen rudder, and the thing that most fixed my observation was his uniform, which certainly was not in uniform with the military regimentals of Europe, either  in its North East South or Western parts.  But if not in uniform with them, it was in full uniformity with the country and the climate;  and it would be worth while perhaps for those European persons who have soldiers in tropical countries to take a pattern from the wisdom of Yucatan in this matter: and for the benefit of all such, I will mention the different parts of our sentinel's uniform, which also is as I have learned the general military uniform all over the country.  First then, and foremost, he has a pair of white trowsers, wide enough to contain the parts contained twice or thrice.  These said trowsers proceed downwards to about the middle of the legs.  The legs under this are bare and so are the feet.  His upper dress, not the uppermost which will come next, is a shirt, and which shirt is white, and falls gracefully over the trowsers, and is not tucked in under them as people elsewhere do.  The uppermost part of his dress or uniform, which I promised next to notice, is, not a cap nor bonnet, but a hat, and that made of straw.  As to what shape, form, and fashion it has, and when it was last ironed or whether ever ironed at all, I do not pretend to say, for the military hats are of all shapes which  chance and driving about have given them.  Coat he has none, nor anything else beyond what I have just described.  I have a drawing of this sentinel, with all the parts of his dress as here put down, and which I would have published, if it had pleased my publisher to do so, along with many other sketches I have brought with me both from Mexico and Yucatan.  But it did not please my Publisher to do this, and he did not like it because he thought our readers would not be pleased with them, or at least with the additional price of my book which the drawings would have made necessary.  Before I leave our sentinel and his uniform, I must add, that his belts are black, and that these show well on the white ground which is the colour, as already noticed, of his shirt.  Finally, whatever may be said for and against this military uniform as to its elegancy, there surely can be but one opinion as to its lightness and convenience in a hot climate.  It is not therefore "more for ornament than use", a description that would well suit regimentals in some or many other parts, but is, on the contrary, more for use than ornament.

 I met today by appointment my friend Don Joaquin Rejon, one of my fellow passengers, and principal Secretary of State in this country, as before stated.  The object of our appointment was that he might take me with him to introduce me to some of his friends, persons of note in this place.  He introduced me first to Don Joaquin Gutierres de Estrada, a very respectable merchant who speaks English well.  I was also introduced to his brother Don Trinidad: to Don Mateo Frimont a merchant of note and a native of France: also to Don Joaquin Ruiz the Gefe Politico Superior of the Department of Campeachy, one of the five divisions of Yucatan.  By these several gentlemen I was kindly received on my friend's account, and invited to call again, and to say in what manner they could be of service to me during my stay in their city.

 Wednesday 8th November 1843

 Yesterday I had my attention particularly drawn to the appearance of the washerwoman who came to take my linen.  Her face [21] was singular, rounded rather than elongated, and her whole countenance differed as I supposed, from any thing I had ever before witnessed in any part through which I had travelled.  Her colour, as well as her features, was peculiar: it might be yellowish brown.  There was also a modesty and a gracefulness in the party that were pleasing.  To day, as I was moving through the house, I saw my washerwoman again, as I supposed, and having omitted to state to her yesterday something about the manner in which I wished my linen to be dressed, I accosted her to communicate the notice I have indicated.  But I found I was in mistake: this was not the washerwoman, but another person, yet possessing all the peculiarities I have above described.  This circumstance, and a closer observation than before of other women whom I saw afterwards in the streets, having thus had my attention arrested, led me to believe that I had met with a race  of people that had never come under my eye before.  If I had been asked to say at once to what other race this new race most approximated, of what I had seen, I would have said, to the Chinese.  This, I may say, as far as my observation in this peninsula yet extends, is the Yucatan face, features, colour, and countenance.  Whence came these people? and when did they come to this land, so far  distant from their native or pristine country, in the vicinity of the part that once was paradise?  These are interesting questions, but cannot be yet answered, though perhaps at a future period they may.  The subject of the peopling of this new world is very interesting, and the Ruins that have lately been brought especially to light, as found in different parts of Yucatan, will probably throw light on this hitherto dark object.  I leave the matter for the present, in the hope of returning to it farther on in this journal, and when I shall have seen and learned  more of this interesting race of our fellow creatures, descended, as they must needs be, from our common ancestors, our Adam and Eve, and also our Noah, our second and last common father.

 I had seen at different times since I mentioned his name, my friend  Don Rafael Carbajal.  He still continued his good offices in assisting me to dispose of my Bibles and Testaments, and through his assistance, and through other means, the sales were going on as well as could be expected and no opposition nor discouragement were met with, but all who got the books seemed well pleased with their purchase.

 To day I had a special visit from this gentlemen, and obtained from him  much information regarding this city, the late war, and the country generally.  Among other things he informed me that there was a periodical of some value lately published here called Museo Yucateco, but that it had ceased in its issue in consequence of the war, and the close siege of this place.  He spoke very well of this periodical, and said that the Editor's name was Don Justo Sierra, who was son in law to the Governor, and at present in attendance at Merida as a member of the Senate, and an individual of the Governor's Council.  Mr. Carbajal informed me also of the republication of the History of Yucatan by Diego Lopez Cogolludo a monk who long resided in Yucatan.  The Editor of this work also was Mr. Sierra already mentioned.  About half of this work had been brought out, and the continuance was stopped likewise by the siege.  The work of Cogolludo is almost the only History there is of Yucatan.  It is a thick folio, and is at present exceedingly scarce in the country, and large sums have been offered ineffectually for its purchase.  The gentleman above named who is endeavouring to put this useful work into the hands of his countrymen in a commodious form and at a cheap rate, is certainly deserving of much praise, and which  mead will, I trust, be duly awarded him by a grateful community for whose benefit he is labouring, at the cost of much personal toil, and risk as to expenses, especially under the present disadvantage to which the country in subject.

 I was anxious to see the two works here noticed, and soon after my friend had left me, I sallied out in quest of them, though I knew not where exactly they were to be found.  I thought of making inquiry of the person who I had learned had printed them.  I went my way to his house, but found he had them not, nor knew where they were to be met with on sale.  He recollected however a gentlemen who had been a subscriber to the works, and who, he believed, had them in his possession.  A person conducted me to his house, but he was absent.  We however met him in the street soon after me had left the house, and I returned to it with him, and saw the works in question.  He kindly lent me both of them, and I went home, and forthwith read the Editor's Preface to his reprint of Cogolludo, with which I was much pleased.  I also dipped a little into the periodical, and found in it many interesting things as to the history and state of this country, with valuable literary and miscellaneous [22] matter.

 In the course of our conversations, on the geography and the antiquities of this peninsula, Mr. Carbajal mentioned to me, that he knew a Petenero, or native of Peten, a very intelligent and shrewd man, a mulatto, who could he thought give me much information on several points in my general inquiries.  In the afternoon my friend called again, such was, as a specimen, his kindly attention to my wishes, and brought with him the Petenero, of whom he had spoken.  On entering into conversation with this individual, I found that my friend's observations in his favour were fully justified.  He had travelled through various parts, in the neighbourhood of his native place, Peten, and had been also in Mexico, and through several portions of that country.  He confirmed all that Mr. Brown had stated to me in Veracruz respecting the River Usumasinta, except that the River Catasajá branched off he said from the Usumasinta, instead of originating in a lake of the same name.  He also gave me further wise information to the following effect:  The distance, he said, from Peten to Palenque is 100 leagues.  From Peten to Belize is four days' journey by land, and two more by water, down the river Belize.  The English have made a carriage road over two of these four days' land travel, and the rest is a bridle road.  The Belize people would have  continued the wheel road all the way to Peten, but were hindered from doing so by the government of Guatemala, which stopped them at the Cerro or hill of San Gertrudis.  Mahogany abounds in all that quarter.  The climate of Peten is in heat much the same as that of Zelaya in Mexico, but is moist, which is not the case in Zelaya.  There is a town of wild or half wild Indians between Peten and Coban called Chisec, and another between Peten and Palenque called Chacampat.  These inhabitants of the latter are wild Indians in full.  There is a road from Merida to Peten, running South, in nearly a straight line.  The best way however from this quarter to Palenque is by water to the Laguna (de Términos), and thence up the rivers, the navigable waters of which go near to that town.  There is no road by land from this Peninsula to the Laguna.

 Such was the information I received from this intelligent mulatto, who spoke clearly, and like a person who understood well what he delivered.  The town of Chacampat mentioned by him, as inhabited by wild Indians, must I think be the same as the one noticed by Mr. Brown, some of whose people he saw at Palenque.

 Mr. Carbajal gave me for perusal a map or ink sketch of Yucatan made some time ago by  a Spaniard whom he described as of irregular and erratic habits, and who had traversed nearly all the country.  Also he lent me a map of La Laguna, and a sketch made by his father in his official capacity, of El Punto de Yalajau, close to, and on the West of, Cape Catoche.  The harbour there, and the entrance to it, have only two fathoms of water.  The anchorage is well defended by La Isla de Polvox, and by sand banks.  There is in the place a small fort, and a village called Nueva Malaga.  Both are distant from where the vessels lie a full mile, and the intermediate space is a savanna.

Tour in Yucatan -  9 November 1843

Thursday 9th November 1843.

 I paid a visit to day to Don Juan Joaquin Gutierres de Estrada one of the gentlemen to whom I had been introduced by my friend Mr. Rejon on Tuesday.  I found his lady very lively in conversation, and full of information on several subjects in which I felt an interest, and hence our interview proved very satisfactory to me, and I hope not otherwise to her.  The subject of education and schools was not one of the least of our topics and more particularly schools for females. She said a school for young ladies of the higher of society was much needed  in the place.  I inquired whether an English lady might meet with success should she establish such a seminary in Campeachy.  She replied that she had no doubt whatever but that such a lady and such an establishment would be pretty valued, and be greatly encouraged.  I told her of the interest I had taken for a long time back in favour of education, and not least female education, in Mexico, and other parts of Spanish America, and of the commission I now had from several persons of standing in the city of Mexico to procure English Ladies for the purpose of setting up a Young Ladies Boarding and Day School there such as those we have in England.  Try to do something for us also, she said and you will not be left ashamed of your efforts by our neglect of the person or persons you may send us, but we will be kind to them and give them all encouragement.

 I shall probably return to this subject again in the course of this Journal, but in the mean time, I should say, that I fully believe that the lady I am here speaking of would fulfill her promise, given on her own part, and on the part of the other ladies of Campeachy.  I believe that an English lady would be encouraged [23] and would prosper in such an undertaking as I have referred to. There is a great desire for a good system of education in this portion of the world, and the ladies are not the least desirous of this in favour of their daughters, and the fathers as well as the mothers would join to give encouragement to a foreign lady in establishing a school for females in the country.  I say a foreign lady, and I say it because there is a prevailing idea in these countries, and naturally induced, that foreigners, or Europeans, are more advanced than themselves in general knowledge, civilization I may say, and politeness.  Among foreigners, I would also say that the English would be most esteemed.  I include in this the American English, but yet would add, whether from prejudice, partiality, or from truth, that the English English, if I may so denominate ourselves in the way of distinction, would be preferred, or as they would term it in Spanish, speaking of a lady, Una Inglesa Legitima.

 An English Ladies School was conducted for some time in the city of Mexico, and under my own eye, and was well encouraged by the best ranks of society in the place.  Afterwards a French lady set up an establishment of this  kind, and was very successful.  At the time I left that city there was no female school conducted by a foreign lady.  I had much conversation with several ladies and others as to the obtaining of such an establishment for the place, and during these conversations a strong and general preference was manifested in favour of an English lady over a French one, or any other proper lady.

 I have given an extract from a letter I wrote from Mexico to Mrs. Thomson then in London upon this matter because of its full bearing upon the point in question, and as to the kind of ladies that would best suit these countries.  There is in the same an indication of other English attachments, and wishes for assimilation, which may be considered as fully bearing on the entire matter.  The following is the extract referred to:- "Mr. -------- is much taken with every thing English, and is most desirous to promote English feelings and practices among his countrymen.  Since we were here his youngest Brother and his youngest Sister have learned English, and can speak it tolerably well.  The whole family partakes of the same feeling, and to anglify themselves in part they have an English  family Tea every evening.  I took tea with them the other night and found all things in nice English style and order.  They would be glad to have an English cook, and an Englishman to wait at the table, and would pay liberally for the same.  One of the chief things we have talked of and planned is that of having an English ladies' school here, in Mexico, and others also in the other larger towns throughout the country.  This is an important measure, I am most fully sure for the regeneration of Mexico, with the renovated daughter of which our own two Daughters will arise and be associated in the day of Christ. If this matter could be well managed, I have no doubt of its answering well for the parties, and of its proving a very great benefit to this country in many respects. The persons who would undertake this should be Ladies in their education and in their manners, and should be decided Christians in their principles and their practices.  They should also have some spirit of courage and of enterprise, for such a spirit would be required to lead single ladies to leave home, and to come to, and sojourn in, this foreign land.  I think it  very probable that there are some or several in London possessing all these qualifications, and who have perhaps comparatively little to do there, and consequently little income.  These might change for their own good and for the good of Mexico.  But great caution and judgement are necessary in the selection, as there is a double responsibility in the case.  Mr. D.  and others might be useful to you in this matter.  Inquires might be made and notices communicated on the subject, keeping free of all arrangements and compromises till all was clear.  At my request Mr. ---- has written me a note on the subject, and which I enclose.  You will see, that for a school in this city, the expenses of two ladies would be borne from Veracruz to Mexico, and also the expenses of the commencement of this school by Mr. -----, the source to be repaid out of the school proceeds afterwards.  The same advantages are offered in regard to the schools in San Luis Potosi and Guadalajara.  I commend this subject to all who feel an interest in the Kingdom of God is general, and who especially feel for the welfare of Mexico, in its various relationships".

 [24] The letter from which I have taken this extract is dated 24th. of April 1843. Mrs. Thomson, in consequence, used some efforts in seeking out for such persons as are here referred to, but without success. The case, and the places are still open, and my friend in Mexico, and other friends there have the same views and desires, and my own wishes on the subject remain also the same. I notice the matter now, and thus fully, not only as illustrative of the state of things and feelings in the countries I have mentioned, but also that this notification may be the means of the object being accomplished. Should these notices come to the knowledge of any ladies qualified as I have described, I should be glad to hear from them, through my Publisher, in order to give them fuller, and all necessary information regarding the countries, and individual places of them to which I have referred. But I beg that none would apply but such as are "ladies in their education" as before said, "and their manners, and who are also decided Christians in their principles and their practices".

I have wandered many years in the various countries of Spanish America, as indicated in my Brief Sketch, preceding this Journal, and many kindnesses have I received in various places, and from many persons.  It is probable I shall not now return to these quarters.  But their welfare I trust I shall never lose sight of and I shall always be most happy to do anything that I can for their good, and in all the extension of their various interests.  If the present notices on female education shall lead to the advancement of this most important and interesting object, I shall feel most happy in the result.  What I here do, and would do should occasion offer, is from a sense of general duty on the one hand and also from a feeling of gratitude and friendship, on account of many favours received from those whose benefit I seek.

 I make no excuse for running, I will not say away, but into this subject, as connected with my conversations with Mrs. Gutierres de Estrada above named, as all I have said has a close bearing on the general view and character of the country through which I travel.  And all bears also on the obtaining a Ladies school  for Campeachy, for I shall be glad to receive overtures for this place as well for those in Mexico proper.

 I learned in the course of the conversations above referred to, that there are three medical men here, one of whom is a Spaniard, one a Portuguese, and the third a Frenchman.  One of these is described as superannuated, and thus two only are left for the duties of the place.  At the same time I learned, and more fully afterwards, that there are two or three others here at present, not as fixed but transient practitioners.  Of the climate, and the need of medical help, I shall speak farther on.

 I paid also a visit to day to the Political Head of this city and Department,  Don Joaquin Ruiz de Leon, before mentioned, an officer of government who would in other places perhaps be called the governor, and in our style and arrangement the Lord Lieutenant.  He is according to present nominations in Yucatan called El Gefe Politico Superior, or Superior Political Chief.  In the smaller districts of the department, the head officer is styled Gefe Politico,  and the head of these heads has the word Superior added to designate his superiority over the  minor superiors.  This gentleman gave me a very courteous reception, and in entering at some length into conversations with him, he gave me much information respecting this place, and in regard to the country in general.  He gave me some characteristic notices of  persons as well as things, all which information was to me of value, and both immediate and prospective.

 As I walked the streets to day I had my attention particularly drawn to a cobler, or he might perhaps be a shoemaker also, but he was cobling when I observed him.  He was sitting outside of his door, his seat was the ledge of the footwalk or side pavement, and his feet rested on, and his face fronted the street.  He was not, rigorously speaking, naked, but he was very very near to it, and at a little distance appeared naturally so, for all his clothing consisted of a pair of thin and wide trowsers which were tucked up to the top of the thighs, so that from the upper part of the waistband to the lower parts was only a few inches.  The heat of the climate makes this dress, or rather undress very convenient, though certainly not seemly to European eyes.

 In my walks in the different towns through which I pass, I not unfrequently step into shops, and get into conversation with the shop man [25] not as a pretended buyer, for I do not like false pretenses in any thing, nor on the other hand do I think it right to trouble people about prices when they are to have no profit by me: I enter these shops as a stranger, and tell that I have the curiosity of a stranger, and then beg the shopman to excuse me in making a few inquiries about his articles and his sales, but without letting me hinder him in serving his customers.  In this way I get much information about the things of the country, and sometimes also of the persons.  On this subject, it is duty I should say, that I have met with, I think I may say always, a favourable reception, and a kindly, courteous, and free communication in the answering of my inquiries, although at times pretty numerous.

 One of these shop visits occurred to day, and my chief object was to see the sugars of the country, and to learn their prices, as visible signs appeared from without, that the shop in question was well supplied with this article.  I found the sugar not put up in hogsheads nor barrels but boxes.  I had seen this mode of packing  sugars when in the Havannah, and therefore was not surprised by a novelty in this mode of putting up sugars, a mode never seen nor practised in all the British West Indies.  These boxes held from four to seven arrobas each, the arroba being 25 pounds.  There were two forms in which the sugar was on sale, first in loaves, and secondly in small lumps and down to powdery state from the breaking and bruising of entire loaves.  This latter is classed as an inferior description of sugar.  The loaves, or azucar en masa, as they call it, sells at 20 rials the arroba and the other at 10.  These are the wholesale prices, and the two kinds are sold by retail at one rial, and at half a rial respectively.  Both these sugars were of good quality.  Both were clayed and such a thing as muscuado, that is our brown sugar, is not known in the country, nor I may add have I seen sugar so manufactured in all Spanish America, except on two estates in the Island of Porto Rico, where it was made expressly for the British American market, and thither was carried, and there was entered, either by a loop hole in the law or otherwise.  I was struck with the form of the loaves here.  They were not by any  means in the sugar loaf, or well known conical form, but in the many irregular shapes of the gourds of various  sizes grown in the country, in which, as a cheap material, they had been moulded.  I met here also with some of the cotton produced in this Peninsula, and which appeared to be of very good quality.  The seeds remained in it, and I took a specimen with me, of both the wool and the seed, that I might afterwards compare them with the productions of other parts.

 The universal mode of making bread from the maize or Indian corn in Mexico is in a thin cake of about eleven inches diameter, and about an eighth of an inch thick, resembling in appearance and consistency, though not in taste, the scon made in the South of Scotland.  This is done by heating the corn with lime to take off the husk, and then bruising it while soft upon a broad stone by means of a long stone applied with both hands.  Previous to coming into Yucatan, I had been told that this mode of making bread and of using the maize was not practised here.  This statement made to me, and the impression produced by it, led me to observe to day with particular attention four tortilleras in the street.  The cake in  question is called a tortilla, and the women who sell them are called tortilleras.  These were the persons now observed,  and this was the article they sold; and hence I learned that I had been misinformed on the subject, and now understood that the tortilla was used in Yucatan as in Mexico, but further experience was necessary to enable me to ascertain to what extent the maize was so used here, and whether other modes also, and to what extent were in use.  These Tortilleras sold their tortillas at from 8 to 10 for a quarter of a rial, which was much about the price in the city of Mexico, though I had expected them cheaper.

 In another portion of this same day, I had a further opportunity of learning something additional as to this kind of bread, and I here add it, for I do not consider it an object of indifference with a traveller to look into the staple article of food of the people among whom he travels, but rather it should be considered as an object which ought to draw his attention, and concerning which, when he writes, he should say something to his readers.  I was passing a house, and looking in at the door which was open, I saw piles of [26] tortillas, not of an eighth of an inch thick as those already described, but rather approaching if not reaching to the thickness of half an inch, or say three to an inch.  This excited my curiosity, and I stepped into the house, saluted the inmate, looked at the cakes, and with permission handled them.  Then I proceeded with my inquiries and learned that these cakes so made were for the soldiers.  Further that 24 of them were made out of an almud of maize, and that every soldier had two of these for his breakfast and other two for his dinner, which quantity I considered very fair as a daily allowance of bread.  What other kinds of food he had and how much was not now the object of my inquiries, nor was I now in the place where I could learn ought on the subject.  But I learned here something of the economy, or rather the want of it in this country so far as this kind of bread is concerned.  The price of the maize from which those cakes were made was three quarters of a rial, while the cost of baking alone was one rial, that is the baking of the bread was one quarter more than the material of which  it was made.  Thus was it with regard to these thick cakes, and well may we suppose what is really the case, that the discrepancy and want of economy are greater as respects the thin cakes, and the thin mode is by far the most common.

In Mexico these thick cakes are made by the arrieros or muleteers in their journeyings, as I have frequently seen when travelling with them, and it is the chief business of one of their number to make these cakes for the rest, and take charge of the mill stones, if the stones he uses may be so called, and of the maize, and the dough, etc. pertaining to the same concern.  This case of the muleteer is the only instance I know of the men making such cakes, for in all the houses the women only are employed in this work, and it forms a very considerable portion of their occupation.  Every woman is, I may say, skilled in this mode of making and baking cakes: or at least the few that are not so skilled are well marked, and so that in the common style of the country the mode of designating a woman who is good for little or nothing, is to say, that she cannot  even make tortillas.

 But a word more before leaving this subject in regard to this great expense incurred, as it may be properly denominated, in the preparation of this bread from the corn.  There is not in all Mexico, where this bread is so extensively used, a single mill for the grinding of the maize, nor is this article ever seen there in the shape of meal or flour.  How great a saving of labour would it be to have the maize processed into flour, and from that state made into bread, as is done extensively and economically in the United States.  He would be a great benefactor to his country who would bring about the change here referred to.  But this change is not likely soon to take place, for habits, and hence the prejudices, of the country are against such a hope, for this mode is immemorial in Mexico, and is not of Spanish introduction, but of Mexican invention, and of use from the most ancient times.  And also, I may add, it is peculiarly Mexican, and not American, for though I travelled through,  and resided some time in Buenos Ayres, Chile, Peru, and Colombia, I never saw this said tortilla till I came to Mexico.  Shall I say, in closing, that there is another hinderance to the economical change hinted at?  This is the taste, so to speak of the country, for the taste of the tortilla, made as it is from the moistened and soddened maize is different from the taste of the American corn bread I have referred to.  The American bread however is the more wholesome, and this is another reason for the patriot in Mexico to seek the change. 

The peculiarity of Mexico in the article of the tortilla as distant from all other parts of America, suggests to me another peculiarity of the same people and as different from all others in the New World.  It is in the use of the drink or beverage called pulque.  The plant from which this article is made, called the American Agave, or in Mexico the Maguey, grows all over the continent of South America, yet in no part of all that extent is there extracted from it this drink.  This also must be a Mexican invention, but whether it is a profitable or an [27] unprofitable one is another question.  It has however I think as much to say in its favour, and more too, than what we have to say of our malt liquors.  Of the Barley we could make bread, which would go farther for man's sustenance than the liquors we make from it, and in this use of it we should also avoid the evils and the dangers of the beverage in question.  From the Agave nothing better can be made.  My readers will, I hope, excuse me in this observation, for whilst I am throwing out hints from time to time as I travel through foreign countries, I have not forgotten my own country, nor do I feel destitute of desires for its improvement.

 This evening I paid a visit to my worthy friend Mr. Carbajal, who is a family man, keeps house, and has a wife and children.  With all his household I was pleased, and had reason to be so, as I was courteously received and kindly treated.  He gave me as usual when we met, an account of his continual endeavours on my behalf for the sale of our Bibles and Testaments, and I was happy to find the reception these holy books were receiving in Campeachy was of a very gratifying nature.  The Books were sought  after, and were disposed of at full prices.

 Mr. Carbajal on this occasion gave me some interesting accounts of the Indians of this Peninsula, and more particularly of the agricultural portion of this people, which is by far the most numerous.  He gave me instances of their modes of labouring, and of resting respectively, and of their sagacity, etc.  They labour well and hard during labour days and hours, but at other times, out of labour seasons they rest as effectively as before they worked.  They judge of the North and the South by the appearance of the trees which take the inclination given them by the prevailing winds of the country.  They have a curious and ingenious mode of taking the height of a tree.  They turn their back to it, look through between their legs, and retire till they can just see the top of the tree through the bight between their thighs.  Their distance then from the tree is its height.  This octant is certainly an original one, and its invention and use do no little credit to the native American of Yucatan.

 Mr. Carbajal gave me information at the same time as to the yieldings of landed property to its owners.  It gives, it would seem, about 14 percent on the capital invested.  Property in houses here in  Campeachy at present does not yield more than seven.  But this being a commercial place, the greater part of the capital of the inhabitants is invested in mercantile business, and which is supposed to yield more than either lands or other tenements.  This greater production in this line is of course here as everywhere subject to greater risks, and thus things are balanced more nearly than at first sight appears.  The sugar estates pay most, and this raises the average  above noted.  But sugar is a recent cultivation in Yucatan, and only commenced with the separation of the country from Spain, as previously to this time this culture was discouraged, and all the supplies of sugar for this Peninsula came from the Island of Cuba.  At present more is raised in this country than is necessary for its own consumption, and a small quantity is exported:  most of which is sent, who would believe it, to an English West India Colony!

 Having already noted down all the occurrences and information received during this day, I shall now under this date give some general notices regarding this city, which I have gathered at different times, and here put together.

 In describing a city the first thing perhaps  that should be noticed is the appearance of the same as seen from without.  The best place from which to view Campeachy is from the sea, or say the head of the mole, and the view of it from this quarter is very good.  Its massive looking houses, its walls and bastions, and its towers rising on its ecclesiastical edifices, produce, when all are combined together, and taken in by the eye at once from a short distance off, an effect which gratifies, more perhaps from a kind of greatness than from anything truly beautiful.  Walls and fortified portions of them, surrounding a city, always produce more or less of this effect, and this is one cause of the aspect I have here indicated; and in modern times, and more particularly still in the new world, when and where walls and bastions are so seldom seen surrounding towns and cities, we more naturally, and more powerfully feel impressed when we see them.  Our associations of feeling of by gone times, and far gone by, which we have acquired by our readings in earlier and later life, are all freshened by the sight of city walls.

 Mr. Norman in his work on Yucatan gives a view of Campeachy as seen from the quarter whence I have viewed it above.  I have taken his book in my hand and examined his drawing and compared it with the view of the city lying before me, but found it defective.  The steeple [28] and dome of the Parroquia or Parish Church are well given, but the church of St. Joseph which is very prominent in its towers seems to be wanting; but perhaps the view was taken from some spot where towers were hid.

 The city is surrounded, as already indicated, with walls, though a great part of the town is at present outside these fences in different directions, but chiefly stretching along the shores on the North and South sides.  The walls are about 20 feet high, and the average thickness is six feet and a half.  The form is octagonal, with eight bastions, one in each angle.  These bastions are supplied with cannon and some fine brass pieces of 24 are seen among them made in France in 1754.  A walk round the walls on the top affords a find view of the city within and its suburbs without, as also of the surrounding country to a short distance.  Within, all the roofs are of the azotea form, that is flat, and made of bricks and mortar.  This with the darkness in their colour, from want of being kept in good order, gives a rather dismal aspect to the moss of houses thus seen.  Without the walls, the azotea is inter mixed with roofs rising to a point and thatched  with palm leaves, and this latter roof most prevails.  Some palm trees, chiefly of the cocoa nut kind, raise their tall forms and display their bushy heads within the walls; but outside in the suburbs the palms are very numerous, and they both diversify and beautify the scene.

 The streets are all straight, and cross each other at right angles, and the regularity and convenience of this form of streets is always agreeable, whereas crooked streets, and their crossing each other at all angles, produces in one the feeling of disorder, which I may say gives always some degree of pain to an orderly mind.  One main street runs from the Gate at the Mole to the Puerta de Tierra which leads into the suburb of Santa Anna.  Another principal street runs from the gate leading into the suburb of San Roman on the South but this is not met by the gate of Guadaloupe at the North or other end of it, for this gate has the irregularity of being one street nearer to the sea than the straight line demands.  The whole city and the suburbs rest on a calcareous foundation, which rock in several places forms the pavings, as I may call it, of many of the streets, and this pavement is very irregular  from the softer marly parts of the rock giving way and being removed, whilst the harder remains, and hence the streets are unpleasant to walk on, and very hard and jolting for a drive.  Other pavement, besides this natural one I have mentioned, there is none, with the exception of a small part of three streets where they run into the great square.

 The streets are narrow, say eight yards in general, but they are wider than those of the great commercial city of the Havannah.  But here the inconveniences are not felt as there, as the business and concourse here are small, and so the streets are sufficiently wide for present use, and most probably for any prospective use.  There is a side path or foot-way on both sides to nearly all the streets, of about a yard wide, but it is inconvenient for walking on, as it is of a sloping form, so made probably to carry off the water when the rain falls heavily, but it is so sloping as to frustrate the object for which it was formed, namely the advantages of walking on.  This foot path is also raised from six to ten inches higher than the level of the street, but I learned that it is the street that has been lowered, and therefore is the faulty party, and this is owing  to the abrasion and carrying away by degrees of the surface by the wind in the shape of dust, and by the mighty stream from the tropical shower.  In the main street mentioned above there was a fall down in a small part of it some years ago from a small cavern under it, the roof of which becoming thinner and thinner, at length gave way.  These softer parts, and this cavernous structure, are common in this limestone formation.  From this circumstance, Mr. Norman has stated, but erroneously, that the whole city is built on caverns made by ancient inhabitants.

 The major portion of the houses are of one story, though in the principal streets, in the parts of them near the mole, the two story houses are the more numerous. There are no houses of three stories, and none of course higher.  The windows below have all gratings, some of which are of wood, and others of iron.  The windows above have all balconies.  The gratings give a disagreeable feeling, and one of acknowledged insecurity or danger, but the balconies, if not oriented to the street, though sometimes they are so, are yet very convenient to stand in and get the fresh air, or to look from on all [29] that is passing below.  The houses are solid and massive being all built of stone.  They have the Spanish Saghuan or portico for an entrance, and within, is the patio, or square court.  The lower floors are formed of a composition of lime and other materials.  They are hard, smooth, and cool.  The upper floors, where there are such, are also in general of an earthy or brick form, and conducive to coolness; and this is a great object to be sought for in this hot climate.  Carpets to cover these floors there are none, nor would it be desirable to have them.  The cool earth or brick is better. 

 The inhabitants of Campeachy at present, as near as I can make out from the statements made to me, is 15000, or probably somewhat more.  The greater portion of these reside without the walls, in the several suburbs: some have stated to me that three fourths may live outside, but it hardly appeared to me to be so, and perhaps half within and half without the walls is the nearest to the truth.  The principal suburb is that of Guadaloupe on the North, which is large and well built.  That of San Roman is on the South, and next to it in size and buildings.  The small suburb of San Francisco lies at the farther extremity of Guadaloupe on the North of it, and though small in extent and population, is in some respects of more note than the other suburbs, from its having been the spot where the city was commenced, and where still stand some fine large and massive houses of two stories built by the first settlers.  And there also stands the first church built, and a pillar attached to it, or rather the church was attached to the pillar, which marks the spot where christian worship, if I may so call the mass, was first held.  The other suburbs named Santa Anna and Santa Lucia are irregular, and as much filled with trees as with houses.  The suburbs are much cooler than the parts of the city within the walls.  Walls in no case, nor climate, can be considered as beneficial to the inhabitants of towns in the way of salubrity, but least so are they in the torrid zone, and where they must in every case be positively injurious.

Tour in Yucatan and Brief Sketch: Appendix

Memoranda

 No preface in form, but a prefatory beginning

To number the paragraphs

No contents, nor chapters, nor foot notes

All Spanish, or other foreign names to be translated

The pronunciation of names of persons and places to be given.

Notice of my movements & difficulties in Cuba.

The Spanish Slave Law of 1820: see copy.

Friends in Mexico:- Saviñon, Alaman, Carpio, Perez, Pinson, Galvan, Olaguibal, Hidalgo, Matute, Quiñones, Jose de la Fuente, Galicia, Archbishop.

 Gordon, Chabot.

Visit to Grave Stone. Mary between the two Fig trees, Maria en Puebla. - Walmsley: McChene.

Stage House order, blankets, bedrooms, waiters. Other stage houses on the road.

 Sta Paula Burying Ground - Sta Anna's Leg.

            Pimentel monument.

Alaman saying that the potato was not the food of the poor in Mexico. The maiz and frijol are.

Coaches in Mexico City, see Oct 4th 1843

Frijoles not noticed by Humboldt in the Agrc. Production

The Journal to commence a few days before leaving the city of Mexico

Friends taken leave of, Spanish, English. Mary and Maria.

Visit to Cuernavaca and Tezcoco

The Yucatan Com. Former and present state of Yucatan.

The war, the armistice. Treating. Failure. Hastened out of Mexico. No steamer for them. My accompanying them, and haste to the coast without staying in Puebla.

Road to Veracruz, and arrival there.

My visits in 1827-30, 43-43. Insurances ½ regt. died.

Appearance of Veracruz, from the sea, and from the land. Site, plaza, and &c., see Aug 20-22 of 1842, and 17th Oct 1843.

Climate, vomits. See Humboldt & Padres Alegre and Gage.

Mr Gifford’s opinion. Best of W.I. Fear Doctors most.

Harbour, castle. Zavala. Cession by Spain. French bombardment.

Los Nortes in Oct 1843.

Commerce formerly and now.

Started in 1827 in coach and ten. Fall and death of mule.

Insurance in 1827, price and conditions to be mentioned, as it is referred to page 57.

Santa Anna’s  exaction of duty on specie.

Insult in the case of La Bandera.

John Crows seen on the wing and on the ground

Their contending against the Norte.

Santa Anna’s encampment and objects.

Disaster in leaving Mexico, coat &c stolen. Coach stuck and then half overturned

American swearing drivers. Not so to Cuernavaca.

Families leaving Veracruz on account of the English invasion.

Santa Anna’s objects, Yucatan, Texas, English, himself, his cattle

Present political state of Mexico, its debts, the Am. Claims being honestly and forcibly settled.

Contrast of the US and Mexico on honesty & repudiation

Favour for Education, Comp. Lancas. Tornel.  (José María—critical of Borja Migoni).

Veracruz at the arrival of the Spaniards: things then, since and now. In future, railroad,     practicable, why not made, why Bank not estabd.

Republic, Monarchy.

Case of Texas, Yucatan, and Chiapas.

General geography of America, N and S.

To notice the climate of the W Indies, see 52

Slave times      5000 copies

Accident fixed on Antigua voyage. Land & religious causes, state these.

Suspicion, even Sir P Ross, Gilbert, Montserrat, St Kitts, and Nevis.

BS meeting St John’s

About to go, detention, slow by Guadeloupe, D and Martinique, St Lucy,  Barbados.

La Guayra, Caracas, Valencia, Orinoco, Trinidad, Grenada, St. Vincent, Barbados, Mrs. T.

St Lucy, Mar. Dom, Guada, Antigua.

20 more associations. C Stroyan

No apprenticeship

Leave 23 July, Capt S.

Go to Mont, Nevis and St Kitts.

Stop till 25th. Oct for Tortola, then to St Thomas and Santa Cruz.

St Th. Porto Rico, St Thomas, Crab Island.

Hayti, Jamaica. Emancipation. 1 August 1834  -  38

W. Sturge. People injured.

Planters’ conduct.

100 women & ....

Go to P. a Pitre  in Steam boat, the 1st steamer in the W. I.

Port and Town. Bkseller.

Tin Smith, lamp, lead.

Walton & 4 cases - page 4

Naked children 59 Bteose (?)

........

Turbans 59

2 Oct 4                        Cortes’s signature explained

3  --   1             Aquaducts’ arches, and kinds of water

id. -- id.           Caves at Chapultepec

19 -- 1              Earthenware bells

19 –  2             Notices from Mr. W Brown: The Usumasinta River

                        The hid town of Indians: Palenque: Road, &c. to Belize

20 – 1              Pesebres and mules’ feed

21 – 3             Tasajo: fresh beef

24 – 1              Village of Catasaja and lake: large haciendas.

24 – 2              Las Cruces: graves of Cuatemotzin, &c.

25 – 3             English, American and Mexican sailors’ wages.

Aztecs. Nahuatl language. Nahuatl “su dia”

Balancing of stick in Mexico as in India.

“Quince mil diablos”

Gulf Stream 36 miles wide at narrowest

Exact size of the tortilla. see 9th. Nov

La casa de las diligencias

Thermometer 7th. St

Campeche to be described - the climate, its outer wall, its harbour

The war and siege  15,000

The assassination

The 2 periodicals

The one press(?)

Steamer to be put by Mr. B.

Dress of women and men

Habits of the Indians

Maya not spoken here

Houses coloured

Alameda

Churches

College, friars

Name – harbour & Mole

Site low with semicircular hill behind

To retouch the subject of emigration to Canada & States

The best plans, page 34

Year of Jackson's election and rejection page 39

Height of Orizaba, Popocatepetl, Iztahuatl

The climates of Mexico are mentioned 26th Oct

Something unfavourable is said respecting the Yucatecos on religion, 27th Oct.

Segar making to be noticed

The City of Mexico/Ancient & Modern to be described.

Valley of Mexico. Siege and Conquest, like Jerusalem.

View of the Territory of Mexico.

Its Ancient, Colonial and Independent Condition.

Climate of the Valley of Mexico, of Toluco, Jalapa, Cuernavaca, Zelaya, and Veracruz.

Production in the Market of Mexico, from sugar cane to ice.

Cuernavaca, and Cape Horn: Quauhnahuac, & Cabo de Hornos.

Clavigero's work, Veytia's, Bustamante's, Robertson's.

BS Letters from Mexico, the W. Indies, Venezuela and Canada.

        Mexico City

External view: panorama

Entrance to it

Streets and squares: dirt

After heavy rain, women carry water

Houses, externally, internally

Civic edificios, colleges

The Alameda, Bucorrelis(?) Vigas

Site and scenery around

Villages around

Valley & contour of mountains

The desague

The near hills, bare, then further covered with wood, El Marques. Chipango estate

Population

Classes

Occupations

Evangelistas, etc

Manufactories

Enquiries

Height of Orizaba, Popl. and Iztl.

Population of Mex city and country

The City of Mexico/Ancient & Modern to be described.

Valley of Mexico. Siege and Conquest, like Jerusalem.

View of the Territory of Mexico.

Its Ancient, Colonial and Independent Condition.

Climate of the Valley of Mexico, of Toluco, Jalapa, Cuernavaca, Zelaya, and Veracruz.

Production in the Market of Mexico, from sugar cane to ice.

Cuernavaca, and Cape Horn: Quauhnahuac, & Cabo de Hornos.

Clavigero's work, Veytia's, Bustamante's, Robertson's.

BS Letters from Mexico, the W. Indies, Venezuela and Canada.

A Molendera's day wages in 1564 in Mexico was a medio: See Gama 139.4 Now he says 2rials 140s, but he must mean men not women.

 Reid’s Law of Storms: 2nd. edition 1841.

            The Racer’s Storm, and the winds called Los Nortes, from 28th. September 1837 to October 2nd. 2nd. edition pages 138-148. More storms in the Gulf of Florida than its share.

            Admiral Solano’s Storm in the Gulf of Mexico, from the Havana to Pensacola, 16th. Oct 1780 to 21st. 74 vessels sailed, 19 were missing. This was on an attempt to take Pensacola from the English.

            “The violent North winds in the neighbourhood of Veracruz are frequently no other than the left hand side of rotatory storms” 398,4

            Page 468 Modes of registering the winds and other weather, in the Royal Navy, and at Greenwich M. [by Lieut-colonel W. Reid, C.B., F.R.S. of the Royal Engineers: John Weale 59 H. Holborn]