Lima, 9th November 1822.[1]
A considerable time has now elapsed since I last wrote you, and a much longer time has intervened since I had the pleasure of receiving a letter from you. Although I have not communicated with you directly during this time, yet I suppose you are well acquainted with my various circumstances in this part of the world, through means of my letters sent from time to time to my friends in Edinburgh. Since my leaving my native country, I have experienced much of the gracious goodness of our heavenly Father, in directing my steps, in making darkness light before me, and crooked things straight. The encouragements I have met with in my endeavours to forward the Lord's cause in South America, have been, much greater than could have been expected before the trial was made. I think a door has been opened here which will never be shut, but which will, I trust, from one year to another, open wider and wider, until it become, in the Apostle's language, "great and effectual." Should I say, there are no adversaries, and that all goes on prosperously, without any difficulty or discouragement from any quarter,— should I say this, it would be nearly the same as telling you, that a great miracle had taken place here, and had changed the nature of man. You, of course, expect no such wonderful accounts. At the same time, it is a gratifying thing to be able to state, that far less opposition has been met with than was expected. Difficulties, I believe, of whatever kind, will grow fewer and weaker as Time runs on, bearing in his hand the torch of heavenly light; whilst, on the other hand, means and opportunities of doing good will greatly increase. It is surely a gratifying sight to see darkness fleeing away, and the light of heaven breaking forth. You know there is no fellowship, in any sense, between light and darkness, the one must give place to the other. Wherever, then, darkness prevails, let the people of God look to him who said, "Let there be light, and there was light;" and let them use those means which he has appointed, under the full assurance, that midnight shall give place to the dawning light, and that again to noon day.
That a great and happy change is about to take place in our hitherto unfortunate, unhappy world, the Scriptures predict; and the days in which we live say, "Lift up your heads, for this happy period draweth nigh." You who live in the land of Israel, whence the word of the Lord is sounding out on all sides, see these things better than I can do in this far distant country. From every corner of the earth messengers are daily landing on your happy shores with tidings of joy. One says, Babylon is fallen; another cries, the gods of the heathen are famished; whilst a third shouts aloud, Satan falls like lightning to the ground. I almost envy this felicity of yours; yet I would not exchange conditions with you. Solitary and alone as I am here, I would not wish myself elsewhere, because I believe I am placed where God would have me to be; and, I trust, his work, in one shape or another, is all my concern. I do, however, wish myself otherwise circumstanced. I should be glad to have with me one or more with whom I could always communicate in the ways and work of the Lord, and whose counsels and labours might prove a blessing to me and to many. You, my dear brother, who dwell in Mount Zion, have never experienced the disadvantage of being thus alone. Should I come into your thoughts when you bow your knees unto the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ, I beg you to pray that grace, and mercy, and peace may be multiplied unto me, and that the Lord's work may prosper in South America.
In my letters to Edinburgh since my arrival in this city, I have stated the favourable reception I met with here from San Martin, and from others in the government. Since that time, the state of affairs here, in regard to politics, has considerably changed. San Martin has resigned his authority in all its parts in this country, and is gone to Chile. The Congress was installed on the 20th September, into whose hands he delivered all the concerns of the government, and next morning, at four o'clock, he set off for Chile. When he took the reins of government into his own hands, under the title of "Protector of the Liberty of Peru," he promised to resign his authority as soon as a general Congress could be assembled; and by his resignation at the time proposed, he justified his sincerity in the eyes of the world. During the time he was in power, reports were current that he was desirous to make himself king of Peru. His conduct, however, has shown, that these reports were without foundation. As far as my own affairs here are concerned, I should have been glad that he had remained longer in the country, and, if I am not mistaken, Peru would have been benefited by his stay. San Martin is an intelligent and liberal-minded man. He is very desirous of promoting the progress of South America in knowledge, and he is free from those prejudices which hinder its advancement. The Congress has now been assembled for several weeks, and has been occupied with various concerns relative to the government of the country. From their own number they have chosen three to discharge the duties of the executive government. This triumvirate is to continue until a constitution be drawn up, and a new Congress assembled, composed of representatives chosen in every province of Peru. This complete representation of the country cannot be obtained whilst the Spaniards are in possession of a considerable part of it, as they actually are at this moment. At present there is great distress felt here by the government, for want of money to carry forward the operations of the war. This appears to be the chief obstacle in preventing the general independence of Peru. Troops are not wanting, as, in addition to those brought by San Martin, and those who have since been raised in the country, General Bolivar has sent about 2,000 well-experienced troops from Quito, as affairs in that part have now been brought to a favourable conclusion.
The English merchants here have just given the government a loan of 70,000 dollars, by way of helping them out of their difficulties. An expedition sailed some weeks ago for Arica, and we anxiously look for the result. All that part of the country is in possession of the Spaniards, as well as nearly all the best provinces of the kingdom. Notwithstanding the possessions which Spain still holds in Peru, the independence of the country is not at all doubtful. It may, indeed, by the mismanagement of the Congress, or by some other misfortune, be retarded, but it must ere long completely prevail. I believe there are no remains of the Spanish arms now existing in America, except those in our neighbourhood, and about 1500 men in the isles of Chiloe. What a change, in this respect, has taken place within these few years past! And let not this revolution be considered as a small matter by the man of benevolence and the Christian. The interests of religion and of humanity are very closely connected with it. That once dreadful, now innoxious house, the Inquisition, reminds me, as I daily pass it, of the happy change which has taken place. True it is, that the Spaniards have now put down the Inquisition throughout their Dominions; still, however, there are many inquisitorial things yet subsisting in Spain that do not exist in the independent states of South America. Every effort has been used by Spain to retard the progress of knowledge in America. These days, however, have now gone by, and light of every kind begins to dawn on these countries. My own opinion is, that the nations of South America in a few years will far outstrip many of the nations of Europe. The people here, to a certain extent, are conscious of their ignorance, and are desirous of wiping out that stain which Spain has left upon them.
I have hitherto been speaking of the progress of knowledge in general in South America, and its probable results. I shall now say something of the progress making in the knowledge of religion. You know, of course, that the Roman Catholic religion is the only religion professed in this Continent—as it once was the only one in Great Britain. Many are beginning to see through this system, and to find out its inconsistencies. I wish I could also say, that all who see thus far, have attained to the knowledge of the true religion, as laid down in the New Testament. This, however, is not the case. On the contrary, I am sorry to say, that deistical principles are espoused by the greater part of those who get out of the trammels of popery. A good many in the higher ranks, particularly in the army, are of this way of thinking. This state of things need not surprise us. It is perhaps the natural result, or transition, in those places where no other religion is known than the one professed in this country. A man begins to see the absurdity of the Catholic system, and from his infancy all that is religion with him has been connected with it. In giving up this system, he gives up with religion itself, as considering popery and it the same thing. From these circumstances, I conceive this to be the most favourable time for introducing, as far as can be done, the holy religion of our Lord Jesus Christ. The present is the time for labouring in this field, by introducing the Scriptures, and by every other means which prudence may dictate. Prejudice is growing less every day, and this is the result of the revolution. There is even a perceptible difference between the different parts of this Continent in regard to the decrease of prejudice. In Chile there is less than in Lima, because it has been longer independent. Again, there is still less in Buenos Aires than in Chile, for the same reason.
Having mentioned Buenos Aires, I cannot leave it without eulogizing it, in almost the highest degree, in regard to the progress it is making. One reform succeeds another in rapid succession. They are just about to put a stop to monarchism, and to take the church property into their own hands, paying the clergy out of the public treasury. It is said also, that they are about to pass a law for religious toleration. In every respect Buenos Aires now holds the first rank among the cities and countries of South America. To have one place thus stepping forward by way of pattern to the rest is of immense advantage. There are several periodical works of a superior kind issuing from the presses in that city. In these every subject is freely discussed, prejudices attacked, and reforms proposed. The liberty of the press is enjoyed and acted upon there in the same manner as it is in England. The articles published in the Buenos Aires papers and magazines find their way gradually into the papers of Chile and Peru, and thus prepare the way in these places also for following up, ere long, the same reforms and arrangements that are now going forward in the pattern city I have mentioned. In this city, also, the liberty of the press is enjoyed to a considerable extent. This, however, only commenced about two or three months ago, upon the dethronement of the principal Secretary of State. This individual, though a great friend to reform himself, and from whom I met with every encouragement, wished to keep these things in his own hand, at least for some time, and to grant the freedom of the press by degrees. The plan of ecclesiastical reform published in Buenos Aires was also published in the public paper of this city. Various other things of a similar nature are thus indirectly brought under the consideration of the people of Peru; and coming from Buenos Aires, they are better received than they would be, coming from any part of Europe, especially from a Protestant country. We had also an attack upon the friars of Lima the other day, in one of the publications of this city, whose editor is one of the Secretaries of Congress. These things you will consider as the fruits of the revolution in South America; and the time fast approaches, when we shall see still more abundant fruits, and those too of the best kind. The Lord reigneth, let the earth be glad!
"With respect to the climate of this place, you know, we are here fairly within the torrid zone, the latitude of this city being 12° 2' 51" S. A few days ago we had the sun vertical here, as he passed us on his way to the southward. Notwithstanding our proximity to the equator, we enjoy a very agreeable temperature. In the winter the sun but seldom makes his appearance; in spring he shows himself more frequently; and in summer he throws off reserve, and from his vertical throne looks down in all his magnificence. From ten o'clock till two, it is pretty hot, but about this hour a refreshing breeze springs up from the south, which is very agreeable. It is generally said, that it never rains in Lima. This, however, is not quite correct. It does rain a very little in the winter season; but the drops, when they can be recognized as such, seem to have passed through the finest rain sieve. It is, in short, rather a kind of mist than rain, although at times it may be called by the latter name; and when it is so, the people of Lima call it a heavy shower. Before I came here I frequently heard this climate denominated unhealthy. The tertian ague prevails a good deal, but on the whole I do not consider this an unhealthy place. For my own part, I never enjoyed better health than I have done since my coming to this city. Blessed be God for this precious blessing!—There is one thing of a rather terrifying nature to which this place is subject, I mean earthquakes. There is no place, I suppose, more subject to them than this city. We have had several shocks since I came to it; the greatest was on the 14th September. I was awaked at a quarter past three o'clock in the morning by a most dreadful noise. I was at no loss to know what this noise was, considering the part of the world I was in. This noise continued for a few seconds, and increased. The shock then followed, and made all the house shake, as if the whole were coming to the ground. A loud hollow noise followed this for a few seconds, and on its ceasing all was tranquil as before it commenced, and those who had fled out of their houses quietly returned. These phenomena are of frequent occurrence. There are, I believe, about thirty earthquakes here in the course of a year. Those, however, which throw down houses and produce other ravages are rare. Once in fifty years seems to be about the period of those terrible visitations, and with considerable regularity Lima has suffered severely at the return of this fatal period. The city of Quito to the north, and of Arequipa to the south, have also their periodical visitations.
[1] James Thomson. Letters on the Moral and Religious State of South America. (London: James Nisbet, 1827, pp. 49-59.