Mr J Thomson to Mr Smith[1]
Lima, 4th September 1822.
My dear Brother,
The first of September has returned, and has gone by. I have not, however, failed in seizing an opportunity of writing you according to our agreement. You know, I dare say, that we have not a post that leaves Lima every morning for England. A vessel goes now and then from Callao to Valparaiso, and through these two place and across the Andes, and through Buenos Aires my letters to you are now obliged to travel. No vessel has sailed for Chile since the 1st current but in a few days the French frigate lying here to sail for Valparaiso.
I have now been upwards of two months in this city, and have all the while enjoyed my health very well. I am inclined to think this climate is better than I was led to expect from the accounts I had heard of it. The tertian ague,[2] however, is a disease very common, especially during summer, of the Englishmen I know here, three have had it since my arrival. The general opinion, I think, is that with great regularity of living, this place is not unhealthy; but that the effects of irregularity in the general mode of living, is more hurtful here than in most other places. A good police would certainly contribute greatly to the healthiness of this city. This will be enjoyed, I believe, in due time; but the Government has so many things at present to do, that some time may elapse before that improvement takes place. This is the largest city I have yet seen in South America, and I believe there is none larger in it. I do not, course, include Mexico, which is in North America. The houses here, and the general appearance of the city, have a more commanding and richer aspect than what is met with in Buenos Aires Santiago de Chile. The general appearance of the population, however, I think, is considerably inferior to what is seen in these two places, particularly in the latter. One thing which contributes to this difference, is the considerable proportion of slaves here. In Buenos Aires, there are a good many of this class of our fellow-men, but fewer than in Lima and Santiago; and in Chile, in general, there are very few; and this is one thing which inclines me to prefer the general appearance of Santiago to the other two cities I have mentioned.
About three weeks after my arrival here, San Martin set out for Quito, to have an interview with Bolivar. They met in Guayaquil, as the President of Colombia had left Quito, and reached that place before San Martin landed. The interview was, I dare say, interesting, and I trust it will be productive of good effects for the two countries of which they are the Governors, and also for South America in general. A good understanding, I trust, will be kept up between the nations of this continent, and war in it I hope will be a thing as rare, and rarer than peace has been in Europe, San Martin returned a few days ago, and has since re-assumed the reins of Government, as "Protector of the liberty of Peru." Every exertion is making here for the formation of a Congress. The greater part of the representatives are already elected. All the liberated provinces elect their own members for Congress freely; the right of voting is, I believe, much the same as in the United States. Representatives are chosen for those provinces still under the dominion of the Spanish army, from among the inhabitants of those places at present residing in Lima. A fair representation seems to be desired and sought for, and I hope will be attained in a considerable degree. All acts emanating from such a body will, of course, give more general satisfaction, than if the representation were partial. I do not trouble you with my views of governments, whether monarchical or republican. Certainly, on this subject, "much may be said on both sides." Without fixing my mind for or against this or that form of government, I am strongly in the opinion of Pope, where he says, "Whate'er is best administered is best." I do not think, however, that all are fools, (as he insinuates) who, "for forms of government contest." The sum of the matter and the truth is, that honesty and uprightness are more required, and have been less found in all governments than anything else. Wisdom, therefore, requires, that such measures should be taken in arranging the form of government, as may secure good conduct in governors, in the greatest possible degree.
There were some suspicions, some time ago, and some flying words, which, if true, would have led one to suppose that San Martin wished to form Peru into a monarchy. Who was to be king according to these reports, I need not inform you, as I suppose you will find no difficulty in guessing it at the first trial. The prime minister was of course in the secret, if there was any such thing in hand. With this individual, on other grounds, there was a good deal of dissatisfaction. This dissatisfaction openly broke out a few weeks ago, on account of his interfering in the election of representatives for this city. The consequence was, that a petition was presented to the Marquis of Truxillo, requesting that the minister might be immediately dismissed. This petition was signed by so many of the respectable and powerful inhabitants of the place, and presented with such firmness, that it had the desired effect. The minister resigned before the petitioners left the palace, and in a few days after, he was sent off by sea to Panama. All this took place in San Martin's absence, and the leaders in it were the republican party. San Martin has very wisely fallen in with these measures since his return, and has confirmed the new minister in his situation. A republic, I think, is the general wish of the people, and as the form of government is to be determined by the Congress, I have little doubt of what the result will be. I think this change in the ministry has been, and will be beneficial to the general interests and prosperity of the country.
You know, I dare say, that Colombia is free. The longest and severest struggle of South America has been in that quarter. The first news I heard on casting anchor in Callao, was that Quito had fallen into the hands of the patriots. I think Bolivar, who has been the chief instrument in the Colombian contest, is a great man. I was not at the interview between him and San Martin, that I might take their comparative dimensions at one view; but I may observe, that the general opinion, from a view of the operations of both, is in favour of the Northern [Chief]. As far as my own information and knowledge of each extends, I fall in with this opinion. I do so, not from any dissatisfaction [with San Martin]. He is to me, and has been uniformly, more than I could have expected, and I may say, all I could wish. I believe both of these men are most sincerely desirous of the real welfare of the countries which they respectively govern, and of South America. There is no unholy alliance yet formed in this country, and I think there never will. On all hands, light and information are encouraged, sought after, and promoted. Knowledge, rich with the spoils of time, has just unrolled her ample page in this city, in a public library. This public institution is very respectably got up, and already possesses a number of the best works in the various branches of literature. It is inferior to the similar institution in Buenos Aires; but superior, if we consider the short reign of civil, literary, and religious freedom in Peru. Every individual is free to attend this library every week-day, from eight to one o'clock, and from four to six, without expense; and every book in it is at his command during that time. This one view of the present state of things here, shows at once the immense advantages gained here by the revolution, and the blessings that tread in the steps of liberty. I shall add one thing more to confirm what I have just said. The Bible is now publicly sold at a short distance from the place where used to sit the dreadful Inquisition. Perish all unrighteousness from the earth! May the knowledge and love of God everywhere abound!
Till next opportunity of writing to you, my dear brother, adieu, ever yours,
J. Thomson.
[1] James Thomson. Letters on the Moral and Religious State of South America. (London: James Nisbet, 1827), pp. 43-49; New Evangelical Magazine Vol IX 1823, pp. 191-2. Smith was a pastor in Leith Walk Tabernacle, Edinburgh.
[2] "tertian ague"--i.e. malaria. (BM)