Guaranda, 25th October, 1824.[1]
My last letter to you was written in Guayaquil on the 12th instant. On that occasion I noticed that I had taken that freedom with you in regard to writing, which we often take with our friends without the danger or the thought of offending on the one hand or on the other. The letter referred to was short and could not well be longer from the circumstances in which I was then placed. Before I had finished it, the master of the canoe in which I was to leave Guayaquil, had knocked at the door according to appointment, at four o'clock in the morning. Although, however, that letter was short, I did not consider that I had left you uninformed as to the circumstances that had occurred during my journey from Lima to Guayaquil, as well as those that had occurred in the place last mentioned. I wrote upon that subject two letters of some length, to the British and Foreign Bible Society, detailing these matters with some degree of minuteness. Of these two letters I requested Mr. B. to forward you copies, and doubt not that such will be forwarded to you immediately upon their arrival.
In the two letters referred to, I stated the measures I had taken in circulating the Scriptures in Guayaquil, and the unexpected and happy results which followed in the sale of 738 copies of the New Testament. It was gratifying, I assure you, to see in this manner almost the whole city come together to hear the word of God, and it was not less so, to pass along the streets and to count one, two, three, a dozen perhaps, diligently engaged in reading their New Testaments. Who could pass along under such circumstances, in any other frame than that of thanksgiving and prayer?—thanksgiving to God for having disposed so many to attend to the things which belong to their everlasting peace, and which I may say, have been hitherto hid from their eyes, —and prayer, that the eyes of their understanding might be enlightened, that they might be turned from darkness to light, and might enjoy that inheritance which the Lord hath prepared for them that love him. Nor could I feel otherwise, nor withhold from expressing those feelings, as I walked over the spot where sin has deposited his spoils won in that place. The small and the great are there. My prayer to God was, that through means of the word of life then circulated, many from that spot might, at the voice of the Archangel, awake to life and everlasting glory.
We read in the sacred page upon a certain occasion, some thousands of years ago, when the sons of God came to present themselves before him, Satan came also among them. The same seems to have been his practice in Jerusalem, in Antioch, in Philippi, as well as upon other occasions of ancient and modern date. That he was not absent on this occasion in Guayaquil, we may a priori be assured of. That, he was successful, however, I have not yet learned. I did, indeed, overhear that some priest had said something against the reading of the New Testament, but I had some suspicion that the information was not quite correct. As a counterpart to this, several priests and friars bought of the New Testaments. At one time, I think there were five friars in the store at one time to purchase, and one of these took thirteen copies. At another time, a friar, who had bought a New Testament, came afterwards inquiring very anxiously for the whole Bible, and was much disappointed upon learning that there was none. I told him that some two months after, some Bibles might be expected, and that as only 50 copies were ordered, he had better put down his name it he wished to secure one for himself. Upon my telling him so, he immediately subscribed for two copies.
This person told me that all the friars in his convent had bought New Testaments, and that they were all highly pleased with them. It is really encouraging to see the word of God circulate in this quarter with little or no opposition.—I may add further regarding this matter, that I was upon very good terms with the rector of Guayaquil during the few days I remained there. I paid him a visit, accompanied by a friend to introduce me, and next day I received a very courteous visit from him in return, accompanied by the ecclesiastic next in rank to himself. He has, besides, given me two letters of introduction, warmly recommending me to his friends in Quito.
Do not all these things, my dear friend, lay us under obligations to give thanks unto him in whose hands are the hearts of all? And are not such occurrences calculated to encourage us to labour in this sacred cause and to ask of the Lord liberal things according to his promise? I am persuaded you so feel, and so act, but still it is not unnecessary to remind you of these matters, to stir up your pure mind by way of remembrance, and thus to add line upon line. Let us then continue instant in prayer, that the Lord would pour out his blessing upon this country, already white unto harvest.
A little after four o'clock on the morning of the 14th , I got into the canoe which was to conduct me from Guayaquil to Babahoyo. The river Guayaquil is navigable at all seasons as far as the latter place, a distance of about 40 miles, and in the rainy season, when the river is high, boats pass some 15 miles farther up. The navigation is performed in balsas, and in large and small canoes. The small canoes are made of a single tree hollowed out, and the large ones are built like our boats, and capable of carrying several tons, but made in the shape of the small canoes. It was in one of the large ones I took my passage to Babahoyo. It is in general by no means a pleasant voyage that is made between these two places. On the one hand, the heat is very great; and on the other, the mosquitos are numerous and active. The effects arising from the bite of this troublesome insect are still, at the distance of more than a week, very visible on my hands, and also on my legs, where they were defended by the stocking-only. On the first day, owing to the excessive heat, I felt very unwell, but enjoyed good health on the following day. On this occasion I experienced from some of my fellow-passengers those friendly and soothing attentions which adorn the female character, and which, on several occasions, I have seen exhibited in regard to myself and to others during my residence in this country.
We were nearly three days in our passage. The river abounds with alligators. I might almost say, it is full of them. Great numbers lie basking on the banks with their horrible mouths wide open, and upon coming close up to them they plunge into the river, and swim about like so many logs floating around you. At one time I counted, in a very short distance, all at one view, on one side of the river, to the number of forty, and at another time I saw twenty, close together. Very few are found at or below Guayaquil, as the water is salt for some miles above the town. In the rainy season, however, when the great quantity of fresh water keeps the salt water down below the town, the alligator is found farther down. I made several inquiries as to the feeling of this animal towards man in this quarter, but could not get any well authenticated information of its seizing upon human kind, and the frequency of bathing in the river speaks the same language. It seems, in this river, still to observe that fear and regard to man which all the animal creation once possessed, but which has now in regard to several animals been effaced, and in most cases, I believe, through the cruelty of man towards the animal creation. All accounts, however, agreed in affirming that the alligators here often seize upon hogs, and other small animals, when found close to the river. Whilst speaking upon this subject I may also notice, that in all the low lands between the sea and the mountains in the parts subject to periodical rains, lions, tigers, and serpents abound, particularly the latter. The lions I am told do not attack man, nor does the serpent, except when trode upon.
Many topics of conversation occurred during our passage up the river. The sale of our New Testaments was known to every body, and thus afforded a subject of conversation in which we could all take a part. Of course I had also something to say upon this subject, as it was well known that I was the seller of them. Two copies were on board, one of which had been purchased by the captain of our canoe, and the other by one of the passengers. I have already told you of the evangelical aspect of the streets of Guayaquil, and the same aspect at times was exhibited on board, both of the New Testaments being frequently in use at the same time. During the many things that were said, arising from what was read, (the reading being frequently aloud,) a conversation took place, the relation of which will probably interest you, and more especially as it affords a specimen of the progress of thinking upon religious subjects in this country.
The subject was a delicate one, but so much the better, as a specimen. The worship of saints was the matter treated of, though I do not remember what gave rise to it. I stated my views upon the subject, appealing to the Scriptures and to common sense in support of my opinion. A very keen and interesting conversation immediately took place, in which four, besides myself, took a part, and you will be surprised when I tell you that three of the four took my side of the question. The one who was opposed to us happened to be a stout disputant, and thus gave occasion to a thorough discussion of the matter. Among other things brought forward to show the incongruity and sinfulness of the worshipping of saints, I stated that the Apostle Peter himself, (who according to them is the prince of Apostles and saints,) refused this worship, and in proof of this, I referred him to the tenth chapter of the Acts. This passage was turned up and read by one of the company, and it appeared to all of us, except one, conclusive upon the subject.
Our opponent, however, defended himself, by alleging that although Peter, upon that occasion, refused worship, he refused it because he was not glorified, but that after death things were otherwise.—You agree then, I remarked, that worship is not to be given to the saints when upon earth, but it is lawful, you say, to give this worship to them after their death. Let us then go to another passage, I said, and see who of the inhabitants of heaven are to be worshipped. I then referred to the last chapter of the Revelation, namely, "When I had heard and seen, I fell down before the feet of the angel who showed me these things. Then saith he unto me, See thou do it not, for I am thy fellow servant, and of thy brethren the prophets, and of them who keep the sayings of this book: Worship God." This passage cut off the refuge which our friend had taken in his distinction between worshipping a saint on earth, and a saint in heaven. He then took refuge in the church, alleging that since authority had been given to it by Jesus Christ to order and direct the concerns of his kingdom after his ascension, it was our duty to obey its orders, and one of these orders was, the praying to the saints.
You know, of course, how I would have got rid of this objection, that is, by sweeping away this authority of the church altogether, and I stated this to be my opinion. The captain of our canoe, who took a large share in the conversation, and who saw in the church an authority to which he considered himself bound to submit, assailed our opponent by another argument, and a very effectual one. He came close up to him, and with an air of having something in his mind worth saying, "Is it not," said he, "the duty of children to reverence their parents, and to obey them readily and constantly?"—"Certainly it is," replied his friend. Our Captain continued: "And if a parent should tell his child to steal, to lie, and such like things, should the child obey?"—"Certainly not," was the reply. "You are right," says the Captain, "and that is just our case with the church. It is our duty to obey it, as it is our duty to obey our parents, but if our parents or the church bid us do what is obviously wrong, in that case it is our duty to disobey."
You see what an excellent argument this was, and it completely silenced the other, and left him without any thing to say upon the subject, except mere general talk and repetition. Our Captain having gained this triumph, turned to one of the four, who seemed rather to acquiesce in the strength of our arguments from the Scripture, than zealously to defend our side, and put this question to him. "Can you tell me," said he, "why the priest reads all the service and prays in Latin, a language of which I do not understand a word, and thus leaving me, when in church, as a mere statue, without knowing what I am saying or doing?" This was a hard question, and it was answered significantly, but without words.
Our Captain next comes up to me, and says, "You see every one sets up his little machine to gain his dollar." I thought I understood his meaning, although couched under a figure, but as I wished it to be well understood by all, I asked him what he meant by it. After a short delay he answered me, by stating, that the church and the priests had made various laws and ceremonies for their own benefit, and that they might thus put a dollar into their pocket.—Various other things were said, and among which the New Testament was praised as a book any one might read and understand, and not like the prayers of the priests, which no one understood, perhaps not themselves. One of the four alluded to, towards the end of the conversation, said, in a very distinct voice, and in the hearing of all, "If I were going to die, this is my faith; I believe that there is one God who made all things, and that there is one Redeemer who died for us, and who rose again; and as to the worshipping of saints, and all the rest of it, I know nothing."
I should not omit an observation of one of our female passengers. When two of us were debating about the worship of saints, she observed to me that she did not like such conversation. Why so, I replied. Because, said she, if saints are not to be worshipped, then it will follow that we are not to pray to the Virgin Mary neither. I said, in reply, that I thought her reasoning worth being heard, as it was a fair deduction, and requested her to put it in the form of a question, to the one of the four who appeared the coolest, and who, as I said before, rather acquiesced in the strength of our arguments than defended our side. As soon as silence was obtained, the question was put, and the answer returned was just what I would have said if called upon to reply.
You will see in the whole of this conversation a freedom of thinking and of speaking, which you probably did not expect, and I confess that I was myself greatly surprised at it, notwithstanding the many opportunities I have had of observing the sentiments of the people of this quarter. In the higher and more enlightened classes of society, I have often met with liberal sentiments, but as the two persons who took the chief part in the above conversation were of the lower class, it was both new to me and interesting.
On our arrival at Babahoyo, I found lodgings difficult to be procured, as the houses seemed all occupied. As soon as this was known to one of my fellow-passengers, he took me to his father's house, where I enjoyed comfortable bed and board, kindly bestowed and free of expense, during the two days I remained in that town. As I intended to make no stay in this place, but push on, I gave no public intimation regarding the sale of New Testaments; yet, through means of my fellow-passengers it came to be known that I had these for sale, and in consequence I disposed of fifty-one copies for which I received fifty dollars, one copy being a present. I may mention, before leaving this place, that it lies very low on the banks of the river, and is overflowed in the rainy season.
The church stands upon a spot elevated some feet above the surrounding parts; and I am told it is common for the people in that season to go up to the church door in their canoes. The usual practice in passing from Babahoyo to Quito, is to hire mules at the former place to Guaranda, and again to hire anew from that to Quito. I accordingly hired mules for this place, which cost me five dollars each, on account of the badness of the roads, though four dollars is the usual charge. The weather at the present time is very unfavourable, and it is singular to see it so at this season of the year. I had counted upon fair weather in this quarter during the whole time of my journey, according to the information which I had obtained in Lima, and am thus less prepared for rain than otherwise I would have been had I expected it. I may add also, that I like rain now worse than ever, as during these two years past I have not seen any.
From Babahoyo to the base of the mountains the roads were very deep and bad. When we began to ascend the mountains, we found ourselves still worse situated. The very steep ascent, and the clayey slippery roads, rendered the journey very unpleasant, and not a little dangerous from the slipping of the mules, which were frequently brought down upon their knees. I shall not detain you for the present with a minute account of the journey to this place, suffice it to say, that I arrived, here, the day before yesterday in the afternoon in perfect health and safety; and I feel, I assure you, upon looking back upon the road over which I have passed, a new motive for thanksgiving to the Father of mercies for my daily and hourly preservation. I shall just farther add, as descriptive of the mountains, that on the first day of our ascent, the barometer in the valley, in the morning, stood at 29.950, and where we lodged in the evening it stood at 26.141, which indicates a great rise. Where we lodged on the evening following it stood at 22.085. On the next day we passed the highest part of the ancient Indian road, where the barometer stood at 21.322.
The situation of Guaranda, from which I now write you, is about ten miles S.W. of the great Chimborazo. This king of mountains raises its majestic hoary head full in view. It is deeply covered from the top, almost to the base, with everlasting snow—snow which must have fallen, if not in the days of Adam, at least in the days of Noah. To-morrow I set off for Riobamba, when I expect to have a fuller view of it, as the road passes along it close to the skirts of its snowy mantle. Guaranda contains about 1500 inhabitants, mostly Indians, who all speak the ancient Peruvian language. There are several little towns in the glens within the district, containing in all 14,000 inhabitants, and who all speak the same language. You will recollect that this is the language into which the New Testament has lately been translated in Lima, as mentioned in my former letters, and you will see here a still more ample field of usefulness for this translation, and the more so, when I add, that not only in this district is the language spoken, but also in all the towns in this quarter as far as Quito. What a wonderful extent and uniformity must the ancient Peruvian empire have had. The inhabitants of this town and the Indians of Peru have exactly the same features and countenance, as well as language.
[1] Letter to James Haldane (see postscript to letter to Brandram, 5 October 1824). James Thomson. Letters on the Moral and Religious State of South America. (London: James Nisbet, 1827), pp. 181-194.